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H16 rigging issues  Bottom

  • Hi,
    I know I can buy new but I was hoping I could get some suggestions first.
    First the cam cleats for the jib need a new spring. I can't tell if mine are too old to rebuild. I can see the delrin balls from above, so I not sure if it is a Harken 150. Any ideas ?
    http://20v.org/tmp/harkencam.jpg

    Second
    The pulley wheel is decomposed inside the jib sheet traveler car (both sides), I guess the wheel can't be replaced.. any cheap alternatives to the full $42 replacement ?
    http://20v.org/tmp/jibpulley.jpg

    Third: It looks like I have a traveler control mechanism, but the end cleat is broken. It is screwed into the bar, but I can't seem to find one of these. Should I just replace it with a V cleat ? I am not sure I under stand the purpose of this thing.
    http://20v.org/tmp/jibcleat.jpg

    Finally I have replace the downhaul cheek (another decomposed wheel)block. It is just $12, but what kind of rivet gun should I buy ? Also do I just drill out the rivet heads to remove the old one ?

    Thanks for any tips

  • greetings...
    1. you can replace just the spring (if you can find a shop with the spring) but that is a pretty worn out cleat... I WOULD REPLACE IT.. and save the headache of changing a spring... and have it possibly fail (at the worst time)

    2. you MAY be able to drill out that sheave (wheel) and replace. you can buy replacement sheaves. If not.. there are LOTS of used h16 parts around (this site, craigs list, ebay)

    3. those 1 way micro cleats are good. and they are around... i just looked through the Murrays catalog (on line) and dont see them.. but they are around. i would try to replace it vs having to rivet or drill more holes in your decklid

    4. i have no advice on what kind of rivet gun to use



    edited by: andrewscott, Jul 15, 2009 - 01:54 PM
  • It looks like a 150 to me. At one time, West Marine had the replacement springs.

    Jib car....common problem. Take a pair of channel locks and crush the sheave. Friction on the steel pin won't be any worse, and it won't chew up your line as bad. Go for the new low-profile cars when you're ready to replace.

    The lance cleat is for your jib traveler....it travels the lower part of the jib out (downwind) or in (upwind). A piece of bungie should connect the two cars so they travel in automatically when the traveller line is uncleated. This would not work well with a V-cleat. Replace the lance cleat for the easiest fix.

    When you say "downhaul cheek" I assume you're talking about the cheek block on the port side of the mast below the cleat for the jib halyard. (There is no cheek block for the downhaul which is connected to the bottom of the gooseneck and attaches to the cleat on the aft side of the mast.) Anyway, most people don't replace that block...just work off the steel pin as above. If you already have the new part, you're gonna need a pretty hefty gun to pop SS rivets....don't go cheap.

    To remove old rivets, don't try to drill all the way trough them....it's a lot of extra work, and you risk enlarging the hole. Instead, use an oversized bit to cut off the head and then punch the remaining part through the hole.

    Hope this helps some.

    --
    Jerome Vaughan
    Hobie 16
    Clinton, Mississippi
    --
  • 1st, on your swivel cam cleat, I think there is a rebuild kit available, check with www.murrays.com, if not, there is a pair for sail on this website under "Used Catamaran Parts"

    2nd, I don't know about being able to replace just the pulley wheel, again just check with murrays

    3rd, that little doohickey is known as a lance cleat, it allows you to adjust the jib traveler in or out, the rope is pulled and wedged under the cam, to release, just slide rope sideways. Check out Hobie catalog on the Hobie website, item # R359S/P, yours does not look broken in pic, you're just pulling traveler adjusting line at the wrong angle, the cam points in the direction of the line. A "V" cleat would work if it had a fairlead, or even an eyestrap to secure line.

    Finally, I use a rivit gun I bought at my local ace hardwarestore, drill out the rivits with same size drill bit as the rivit diameter, be careful not to enlarge the existing hole or the replacement rivits will not fit/work. You can use aluminum rivits, also available at the ace hardware store



    edited by: turbohobo, Jul 15, 2009 - 12:59 PM

    --
    TurboHobo
    H14T
    H16
    P18
    G-Cat 5.0
    P16
    --
  • Thanks guys, I have a harken rebuild kit coming, a new lance cleat @ $14 and will start crushing some sheaves !

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