Howdy all, I'm hoping someone could grab some measurements from a NACRA ds rod casting (the piece that sits on the v-strap with the rod sitting in it). I have a welding shop about to add a piece over the top of the 'v' to isolate/strengthen some corrosion and an uneccesary hole, and I don't think the casting wil fit over the welding afterwards. So I want to incorporate the job of the casting into the welded piece. I specifically need to know how thick/high the casting is (minus the depth of the rod indent, and the v-strap indent. ie. Height of ds rod off v-strap surface) so my ds rod will sit at the correct height. Thanks!
PS. also still looking for a couple of used half-moon beam nut castings. I have a lead on one pair but need another pair.
Edited by sierracat on Nov 14, 2014 - 11:34 AM.
--
Tom
Nacra 5.5 Uni
(actually a chopped down 18sq)
(soon to be 5.5 sloop)
Northern California
--
Nacra dolphin striker rod casting - measurements please?
-
- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Sep 17, 2014
- Last visit: Sep 20, 2022
- Posts: 82
Posted: Nov 14, 2014 - 11:06 AM
-
- Rank: Chief
- Registered: Nov 26, 2009
- Last visit: Apr 10, 2024
- Posts: 2524
Posted: Nov 18, 2014 - 08:12 AM
You should only need two of them, one at each end of the front beam. The purpose is to prevent the force on the sail from rotating the mast inside the straps. Many older Nacra's have two holes drilled in the straps & an SS rivet.
I have photos with dimensions of the ad. Send me your email addy,(don't post it here, send it via pM) & I'll email them to you.
I saw another post regarding exact beam length, don't worry about it, Nacra didn't seem to. I have 6 beams, for 8' boats, & Nacraman sent me some photo/dimensions from his 5.0 & 5.7 beams, they varied by up to 1". You will put the beams onto the hulls, then slide the front hulls inwards til the ends of the V strap butt up against the small tangs riveted to the inside of the hull. The rear beams usually have a small fitting riveted to them that does works the same way.(the fitting is the same thing as the little fork near the to of the mast that holds the sail up)
Here is what the double laced tramp looks like.
You have the cative mast base, that's good. Seal those two small triangular holes between the mast xtrusion & base. If you turtle the boat they will flood the mast in seconds, then you're screwed!
Your rudders need all new lines & bungee...I'll hunt down a write up I did on that subject & post it. Some slag the early Nacra rudders, they are very simple, nothing to keep lubed, & work very well if set up right.
One last item, someboats were 8', some 8'6", due to legal trailering widths. If Dan berger, or anybody has a set of 8' beams for $100 bucks,(I've seen them for that price & would sell you my extras for that) I'd be tempted to go that route, you won't notice it as far as heeling, & it will be easier than building new ones.
Your tram may look beat, if it doesn't have holes it may be OK for a season or two, but you may want to get it restitched.
--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
-- -
- Rank: Chief
- Registered: Nov 26, 2009
- Last visit: Apr 10, 2024
- Posts: 2524
Posted: Nov 19, 2014 - 05:35 PM
Sorry for the delay, I'm down in Florida, & only have my little netbook with me, the photos are on another computer. I took them for another guy who wanted dimensions, to make sure it would fit...never heard back from him. I'll send them next week.
--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
-- -
- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Sep 17, 2014
- Last visit: Sep 20, 2022
- Posts: 82
Posted: Nov 19, 2014 - 07:28 PM
Thanks! But not needed any more. Being the dynamic project that this is, and constantly finding out new information and taking a a different tack (pun intended) on the direction repairs take, I've got myself a casting on its way (from another helpful forum member, but thanks for offering me one as well).
I've been talking with Jack from Nacra, and his knowledge is IMMENSE having been professionally involved with these boats almost since their inception. We talked for a few hours and the we made great progress on figuring out more about what I actually have, what needs doing, and how to do it. I'll save many of the specific details about I learned about old Nacras for a new thread I plan to start once the rebuild is actually underway (hopefully a major source of compiled information for anybody figuring out/repairing and old Nacra). But we decided welding the v-strap was a terrible idea, since with 6-series AL, the weld and the metal near it lose up to 80% of their strength. He informed me that the v-strap 1/4x1.5 bar is 6063 aluminum (more bendable than 6061, which is what the beam material is). So I bought 8ft for $20, cut it down to 6'8", and will bend it on a simple jig I'll make. Yay! Also picked up my stick of 4" beam tubing - worked out about $40 a beam. Have ordered DS rod, ball and captive pin from Murrays, along with new tramp lacing. Ordering some Tef-gel now. Just need to figure out how many rivets of what length, and its time to put a boat together! (and a hell of a lot of drilling out rivets).
Jack says prior to 1985 the 5.5's were 8ft, and they went to 8.5' after that. He confirmed my hulls were from a late 70's early 80's 18sq, with chopped beams. The rest of my rigging appears to be legitimate 5.5 stuff.
I appreciate that. Also need to build a tiller extension.
--
Tom
Nacra 5.5 Uni
(actually a chopped down 18sq)
(soon to be 5.5 sloop)
Northern California
-- -
- Rank: Chief
- Registered: Nov 26, 2009
- Last visit: Apr 10, 2024
- Posts: 2524
Posted: Nov 20, 2014 - 04:42 PM
I'm glad you went that route, I was trying my damnedest to get you to use a proper casting, & not go the weld route. As you found out, the loss of strength is pretty high.
I can't remember where you are at, but if you can drive to Carpenteria, it's worthwhile. I stoed in there on a road trip a few years ago, very helpful people.
If you mean the in that holds the mast to the ball...be sure & remove it after you step the mast. Also be ABSOLUTELY sure to rotate the mast 90* each time you raise, or lower it, otherwise you WILL break things. This shows why;(Yeah, I know, I was a dumbass & turned the mast the wrong way, I didn't feel like raising it again, I just went & got the boltcutters). You will see my base is slightly different than yours, fill those 2 little holes that yours leaves oen.
Don't trim the ends of the V strap, or drill the 3 holes in each end til you get the DS rod installed on the beam. I have 4 of those straps, & they are all different lengths. Your middle bend will depend on what length of DS rod extends below the beam. It doesn't need to be an exact fit,the strap will flex, but if the angles get stressed it makes for a lousy fit at the ends, been there, done that.
I would install DS rod, then mount beam to hulls. Then,(get a helper) position strap & flex ends up to the hull. Mark where they will butt against the tang on hull, then trim to fit. You can mark the 3 holes for the bolts at that time too. You should have SS washers inside the hull,(as per the assembly drawing) to distribute the load. They need to be bent slightly concave to fit well. Place them in a cut piece of steel pipe, & force with a vice, or whack them with a ball peen hammer
I didn't see a photo of what your rear beam looks like, & what track/traveler you have. If it's an intergrated track, you will have to use the beam you have. If it is a Harken car/track, I would bolt the beam on. Drill holes on the under side of the beam, just large enough to get a socket into, & use counter sunk head SS bolts from the top side. Start with the middle bolt & work out, that way the ones you install first won;t be in the way.
--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
-- -
- Rank: Chief
- Registered: Nov 26, 2009
- Last visit: Apr 10, 2024
- Posts: 2524
Posted: Nov 20, 2014 - 04:47 PM
Don't. That is one area where a few bucks saved will be a PITA. I think Pete Begle had some used ones, the good Arriba Sticks.
Solo you will want the full 8' extension, less if you're sitting by the rear beam.
--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
-- -
- Rank: Chief
- Registered: Jun 24, 2009
- Last visit: Jun 15, 2023
- Posts: 1555
Posted: Nov 20, 2014 - 05:30 PM
I second that. Homemade extensions suck for the most part.
--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
-- -
- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Sep 17, 2014
- Last visit: Sep 20, 2022
- Posts: 82
Posted: Nov 20, 2014 - 09:47 PM
Absolutely noted. Don't want to go through all this ds/beam business again!
The old beam has a bolted on track, with many holes on the underside to fit a socket to reach the nuts. I plan to reuse all the same mounting hardware.
Edited by sierracat on Nov 20, 2014 - 09:54 PM.
--
Tom
Nacra 5.5 Uni
(actually a chopped down 18sq)
(soon to be 5.5 sloop)
Northern California
-- -
- Rank: Chief
- Registered: Nov 26, 2009
- Last visit: Apr 10, 2024
- Posts: 2524
Posted: Nov 21, 2014 - 04:30 AM
Why not use that rear beam? Unless it is bent, you are creating a lot of extra work, for no real gain by re-inventing the wheel.
--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--
Users on-line
- 0 users
This list is based on users active over the last 60 minutes.