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  • Does anyone uses these and does anyone have recommendations on brands? Murray's has a hand held unit for $60. There is a bench model on Amazon for $160.

    Thanks!



    Edited by yelkenli1 on Mar 07, 2021 - 05:53 PM.

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    Ted
    Hobie 16
    South Carolina Lake sailing
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  • I'm using this one. It's slow, but it works. $20, but $16 if you use the 20% off coupon online.
    https://www.harborfreight.com/130-watt-hot-knife-60313.html

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    Chuck Miles
    1978 Hobie 16
    1991 Hunter 23.5
    TsaLaGi Yacht Club, Jackson Bay Marina
    Fort Gibson Lake, OK
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  • The Murrays one looks like the old Wen soldering gun. You should be able to find one of those or a Weller 8200 soldering gun for a couple of bucks (like, less than $5) at a garage sale or thrift shop, then get a rope cutting tip for it for a few more:

    https://www.amazon.com/We…ting-Black/dp/B0002BSQR6

    Hey, look... there's the Murrays one for $40 under the name Seachoice.



    Edited by jonathan162 on Mar 07, 2021 - 09:58 PM.

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    Southern Alberta and all over the damn place.
    *
    1983 SuperCat 19
    TriFoiler #23 "Unfair Advantage"
    Mystere 17
    H18
    Zygal (classic) Tornado
    Invitation and Mistral and Sunflower and windsurfers w/ Harken hydrofoils and god knows what else...
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  • I have the cutter tip for my Weller soldering gun. Works fine. I wrap the cut in electrical tape and cut through the middle.

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    '82 Super Cat 15
    Hull #315
    Virginia
    Previously owned: '70 H14, '79 H16, '68 Sailmaster 26, '85 H14T
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  • I built mine from an electric soldering gun from Princess Auto (Harbor Freight). Took the hot end off, pounded it flat with a hammer on the back of a vise, all set to go.

    I sail a Wave

    Charles
  • If you're going to drop the coin, a little more gets you a proper "Romech" hot knife, but it's double at about $65-$80. But, I planned on cutting rope, bungees and lots of cloth. I tried using an old, cheap soldering gun from HF, but that didn't work so well. I'm sure the Weller stuff is much different.

    I have a Harbor Freight hot knife and don't like it. It's more for cutting styrofoam; doesn't have good heat control and is way bulky. It's probably 6-8 years old now, so maybe changed but I doubt it.

    I like the hot knife, especially for cutting Dacron and Sunbrella, plus rope.

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    Chuck C.
    H21SE 408
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  • My buddy loaned me a pen-style soldering iron with a semi-sharp "paddle" on it. It's not a knife and I cannot locate it online, but let me say, my life changed this weekend after using it. It blitzes through dyneema, sta-set, and shock cord. Would be nice to have a gun with a trigger instead of leaving it on all the time. I have been using AccuCut pliers on all line and they are amazing, but you have to go back and burn the ends.
    https://www.amazon.com/Cr…d=pla-442004968983&psc=1

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    Robert
    81' NACRA 5.2 "Chris's Flyer"
    Previously owned H18, Trac 14, G-Cat 5.0, H14T, H16, N5.0
    BYC, Mobile, AL
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  • Don't see the need for one unless you're cutting a lot of line. Wrap tight with masking tape, make your cut with a real sharp knife against a piece of wood holding it firmly where it doesn't move. Heat with a lighter till it melts and then quickly press the cut firmly against a piece of flat metal. Peel off the tape. With a little practice it will look like you did it with a cutting knife.

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    Bill Townsend
    G-Cat 5.7
    Sarasota
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  • True-the old tried and true works just fine.

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    Chuck C.
    H21SE 408
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  • A lot of the modern lines with dyneema or such in the core don't fuse well with a lighter. The outer material melts too much quicker than the core.

    After wrapping with electrical tape and making a nice clean cut, try fusing the end with super glue.....works great!

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    Jerome Vaughan
    Hobie 16
    Clinton, Mississippi
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  • shortyfoxDon't see the need for one unless you're cutting a lot of line. Wrap tight with masking tape, make your cut with a real sharp knife against a piece of wood holding it firmly where it doesn't move. Heat with a lighter till it melts and then quickly press the cut firmly against a piece of flat metal. Peel off the tape. With a little practice it will look like you did it with a cutting knife.

    Agreed.

    rattlenhumAfter wrapping with electrical tape and making a nice clean cut, try fusing the end with super glue.....works great!

    Great for the newer stuff.

    --
    Sheet In!
    Bob
    _/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
    Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
    Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
    AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
    (Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
    Arizona, USA
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  • I have been using the rope cutter (~$ 60) sold by Murrays marine for years! It works for just about every kind of line PERFECTLY and quickly. If you have a catamaran and sail frequently you will use it. I can't stand frayed ends so for me the price was not an issue. It does not work with Kevlar rope. For Dyneema I use first the fancy scissors (cost ~ $60). That's also worth it. I make my own soft shackles in dyneema and the rope cutter is ideal to "round" the lanyard knot to a smooth ball.

    --
    Colin
    Hobie 14, Hobie 16
    Gcat 5.7, Gforce 21
    Falcon F16
    sailing Connecticut Fishers island sound
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    Edited by colinress on Mar 14, 2021 - 11:43 AM.
  • https://www.cableorganizer.com/hot-knife/

    --
    '82 Super Cat 15
    Hull #315
    Virginia
    Previously owned: '70 H14, '79 H16, '68 Sailmaster 26, '85 H14T
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