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Brightside poly  Bottom

  • Hi , has anyone here used brightside to refinish a cat? I am thinking of using interlux brightside with a little hardner in it to promote longevity.I had thought about gelcoat but it such a PIA, This is the 5.8 I am assembling as a low cost project
    thanks
    Carl



    Edited by onekiwi on Oct 14, 2020 - 11:37 AM.

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    Carl

    Dart 18x2
    Nacra 5.8
    1967 B-LION for sale
    1985 Hobie 18
    Windrider Rave x2 for sale
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  • Mine has Interlux Perfection on it - which is the way it came. Whoever painted it did a good job, but put it on pretty thin. Actually held up rather well to some abuse, however It's getting re-worked this winter. My take: Polyurethane 2-part is the best way to go for ultimate durability of paint. I think it would be about the same whether automotive or marine in the end for us. I'll use the Interlux Perfection because the final cost is about the same or a little less than a single stage, 2-part auto poly.

    People HAVE painted with Brightside, I know - don't know how well it'll hold up to abrasion.

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    Chuck C.
    H21SE 408
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  • Hey Chuck,I am painting white hulls white again for ease, a different color would probably be a lot more work and if you scratch it it would show a lot more.seaching the net to see if anyone has added crosslinker to brightside or if it is even possible?



    Edited by onekiwi on Oct 14, 2020 - 01:42 PM.

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    Carl

    Dart 18x2
    Nacra 5.8
    1967 B-LION for sale
    1985 Hobie 18
    Windrider Rave x2 for sale
    --
  • Quote People HAVE painted with Brightside, I know - don't know how well it'll hold up to abrasion.

    abrasion? I sail in the water :) Kidding but if you are careful you don't have to ever touch sand. (with foam noodles /chocks and wheels)

    Quote and if you scratch it it would show a lot more

    yup - my painted (grey) 6.0 is like an etch a sketch



    Edited by MN3 on Oct 14, 2020 - 02:06 PM.
  • Yup, and my Lauderdale blue over gray shows up like that as well. White over white is a good idea, except you've got no primer coat. You can get a white epoxy primer, though in Interlux.

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    Chuck C.
    H21SE 408
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  • I used brightside once. After a week it still wasn't dry. Not an unheard of problem. It did wash off easily though. I'd go for perfection. You can get decent results with roll and tip technique.
  • I am planing on spraying the hulls, i have a couple of guns,Trying to get away with no primer figure if I sand to 320 it should be enough adhesion

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    Carl

    Dart 18x2
    Nacra 5.8
    1967 B-LION for sale
    1985 Hobie 18
    Windrider Rave x2 for sale
    --
  • I painted a laser using brightside and my nacra boards using perfection. The blue laser paint turned dull in a year. For me it's no question. Perfection is my choice.
  • For Perfection, the roll and tip method will give you some good results. I did a carbon fiber mast and it came out pretty good.. Oh! Matterhorn White would be the best match.

    As for Brighside, yes, I have heard of the drying issue.. I believe this may be caused due to not enough drying time between coats, or trying to put on one thick coat on... Got a few gallons of this on sale and painted my work-shed with it... 20 years later still looking good with the exception of the termite damage.. "little effers..." icon_frown

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    John Schwartz
    Ventura, CA
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  • I'm going to spray, because I like to, have all the equipment (including respirators, etc.) and the results (for me) are way better and faster. I'd love to go to white, but it would be a giant etch-a-sketch!

    I would not skip the primer. Just wouldn't. Use the Interlux Epoxy Primekote, because it'll seal up the fiberglass, which is actually a bit porous. You'll get way better adhesion on the top coat with less runs, etc. When you get the Primekote and you open the jar - it looks like and is the consistency of clay. I initially went back to return it thinking it was bad. But, no after stirring (still THICK), then mixing with the catalyst it sure enough reduced down to a sprayable mixture. Sprayed REALLY well through a standard HVLP/Harbor Freight gun w/1.4 tip.

    With these more technical paints you really need to follow the directions exactly, as they will often times call for an induction period after mixing. Meaning, you mix in a container, let it sit for a minimum period of time so the chemical reaction gets started, then proceed to pour in gun and spray. If you do follow, the results are good.

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    Chuck C.
    H21SE 408
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  • My 5.2 has white awlgrip on it (that's all I know on the product). Previous owner did it and it looks sharp. Has held up well for the past two years.

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    Robert
    81' NACRA 5.2 "Chris's Flyer"
    Previously owned H18, Trac 14, G-Cat 5.0, H14T, H16, N5.0
    BYC, Mobile, AL
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  • charlescarlisSprayed REALLY well through a standard HVLP/Harbor Freight gun w/1.4 tip.


    No orange peel with that gun? What pressure setting? I ask as I am going to repaint our front door and thinking about using Perfection.. Southern exposure fades the paint pretty quick

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    John Schwartz
    Ventura, CA
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  • No-orange peek, for me at least is a function of temperature and amount or temperature of thinner. With perfection, you only get one type or spray thinner so you have to watch what your temp and humidity is doing. I start spraying around 10 or 11 am, so I'm on a temperature rise and most humidity is baked off. I wouldn't shoot the paint above low 90's, though. With a lower temp, you can get it to flow better. Even though its "HVLP", you really end up flowing higher to get a good atomization, so it ends up being a conventional spray. Having said all that, I ACTUALLY will spray the primer with the cheap gun and use a Devilbiss GTI gun for the rest. Nothing like using a wonderful tool for the job...

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    Chuck C.
    H21SE 408
    --
  • charlescarlisNo-orange peek, for me at least is a function of temperature and amount or temperature of thinner. With perfection, you only get one type or spray thinner so you have to watch what your temp and humidity is doing. I start spraying around 10 or 11 am, so I'm on a temperature rise and most humidity is baked off. I wouldn't shoot the paint above low 90's, though. With a lower temp, you can get it to flow better. Even though its "HVLP", you really end up flowing higher to get a good atomization, so it ends up being a conventional spray. Having said all that, I ACTUALLY will spray the primer with the cheap gun and use a Devilbiss GTI gun for the rest. Nothing like using a wonderful tool for the job...


    Thanks Chuck... I know is subjective to the environment but on average how much induction time are looking at before it starts to kick off...

    I am going to give it a shot (pun) with the door.. The Rochelle Red looks pretty sharp...



    Edited by JohnES on Oct 18, 2020 - 01:30 PM.

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    John Schwartz
    Ventura, CA
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  • Does anyone have a favorite gelcoat? preferably one the sets nice and hard,,, for sanding

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    Carl

    Dart 18x2
    Nacra 5.8
    1967 B-LION for sale
    1985 Hobie 18
    Windrider Rave x2 for sale
    --
  • The induction period is on the paint's "data sheet", not "safety data sheet". The manufacturers publish these sheets and give you very specific procedures/temperatures, etc. It also includes compatibility with other finishes and the like. Really is required information and makes all the difference in the world to having a successful paint first thing out.
    Example: https://doc.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/pdfs/Interlux/interlux_perfection_tds.pdf

    Looks boring, but pay attention to it. That's for Perfection - Brightside has it's own.

    Oh, and completely wash and de-wax and wash again BEFORE you start sanding...man, I made that mistake (thought i cleaned enough, but didn't), otherwise you can get bad fisheyes in paint and is very difficult to recover from. Sanding drives these contaminants into the existing paint deeper.

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    Chuck C.
    H21SE 408
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