• chipman
  
  

  • Rank: Lubber
  • Registered: May 31, 2017
  • Last visit: Jun 02, 2018
  • Posts: 8

  Posted: Jun 01, 2017 - 11:10 PM

  Hi Folks,
  
  I recently acquired a Sol Cat 18 (nothing nefarious I swear) and have figured out how to rig the thing for the most part. Using this forum and Google Images and a Phil Berman book I've got most of my rigging questions answered, and a few more raised. If you wouldn't mind taking a look at the images I've posted, I'd appreciate any information or reference you can send my way.
  
  First off, while these hooks are great for attaching the trapeze wires to while stepping the mast, I don't know what they're for otherwise.
  
  
  Next, the bungee poking up through the trampoline is for the trapeze to attach to correct?
  
  
  On the cross bar? near the jib travelers there are these eyelets, can't figure out what they do. My thought is they're stoppers for the jib sheet but it seems like it would get in the way of the traveler.
  
  
  Next comes the biggie, or perhaps not a biggie. Do these 3 ways to run the mainsheet through the blocks all work? Is any one better than another?
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Hopefully the questions make sense and someone can shine some light on these for me.
  
  Thanks for taking the time to check it out.
  
  -Chipman
  
  
  
  Edited by chipman on Jun 02, 2017 - 12:06 AM.

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• nacra55
  
  

  • Rank: Mate
  • Registered: Nov 02, 2004
  • Last visit: Aug 07, 2023
  • Posts: 626

  Posted: Jun 02, 2017 - 02:14 AM

  Never sailed a SolCat but here's my guesses.
  
  The hook on the end of the beam is for attaching a bungee to keep the dagger board up, like on a Hobie 18.
  
  You are correct about the bungee coming thru the tramp for the trap wire.
  
  The eye straps on the beam are probably for attaching bungee for a return to center for the jib traveler cars. Bungee from one side connects to the jib car on the other side of the boat. The swivel cleat and the check blocks are for pulling the jib car outboard, the bungee pulls the car back in.
  
  I like the middle pic of the main sheet.
  
  --
  Ron
  Nacra F18
  Reservoir Sailing Assn.
  Brandon, Mississippi
  --

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• tamumpower1
  
  

  • Rank: Mate
  • Registered: Nov 19, 2015
  • Last visit: May 01, 2024
  • Posts: 392

  Posted: Jun 02, 2017 - 07:13 AM

  Pretty sure that's a barber hauler hook at the end of the beam. Middle pic for the main.

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• martyr
  
  

  • Rank: Mate
  • Registered: Jul 01, 2016
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  • Posts: 631

  Posted: Jun 02, 2017 - 08:26 AM

  All I know is that you don't want lines "sheets" rubbing and chafing against each other.
  
  --
  Marty
  1984 Hobie 16 Redline Yellow Nationals, "Yellow Fever"
  Opelika, Al / Lake Martin
  --

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• MN3
  
  

  • Rank: Master Chief
  • Registered: Jun 20, 2006
  • Last visit: Apr 06, 2024
  • Posts: 7088

  Posted: Jun 02, 2017 - 10:32 AM

  Quote

  First off, while these hooks are great for attaching the trapeze wires to while stepping the mast, I don't know what they're for otherwise.

  
  I don't think they are for a barber-hauler, nor dagger board bungee -the lines would be too prone to falling off that hook with any slack or wave action - i am not sure what they are for but they look like they would rip a person apart who flies into them during a stuff or capsize - i would remove them personally for that reason (grind down or other)
  
  
  

  Quote

  Next, the bungee poking up through the trampoline is for the trapeze to attach to correct?

  for sure!
  
  
  

  Quote

  On the cross bar? near the jib travelers there are these eyelets, can't figure out what they do. My thought is they're stoppers for the jib sheet but it seems like it would get in the way of the traveler.

  
  Pretty sure it was used for hiking straps (straps may not have been sewn into the tramp as your current tramp has) - even more sure because of the eyestrap in a similar location on the rear beam
  
  btw - bungees to return jib cars is not needed, even on 4 - way adjusters. if you uncleat your (jib) outhaul line, as soon as you sheet in (which you would need to do anyway if your re-positioning your car) the car will move inboard - the bungee really does nothing

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• MN3
  
  

  • Rank: Master Chief
  • Registered: Jun 20, 2006
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  Posted: Jun 02, 2017 - 10:38 AM

  for the blocks - i think any will work, non crossing is probably best
  but IMHO - with more sail area than a h18 - you should upgrade to a 7:1 or more
  
  Sol cat 18 Sail Area/ 73.79
  hobie 18 / 70.82

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• tamumpower1
  
  

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  Posted: Jun 02, 2017 - 10:41 AM

  My buddy with a 16 has that exact jib car setup with the bungee pulling it back. While sheeting does pull the car back a bit, due to the friction from our old crappy boats it was kinda needed to get it back quickly. And if you were running looser sheeting to add twist to the jib or something there's less pressure to pull it back without the bungee.

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• MN3
  
  

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  Posted: Jun 02, 2017 - 11:04 AM

  Quote

  My buddy with a 16 has that exact jib car setup with the bungee pulling it back. While sheeting does pull the car back a bit, due to the friction from our old crappy boats it was kinda needed to get it back quickly. And if you were running looser sheeting to add twist to the jib or something there's less pressure to pull it back without the bungee.

  
  
  i don't get it - those jib cars have spring loaded locks on them - you need to put your hand on it, pull it up and then you can slide in or out - how does a bungee have any effect on that (unless you have a remote jib car setup)
  
  I will rephrase my statement to be more accurate:
  on my 4 way adjuster - the bungee is useless (and has been gone since i realized it wasn't needed years ago) - and i don't see how it would have any affect on a front beam jib car with spring loaded locks

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• tamumpower1
  
  

  • Rank: Mate
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  Posted: Jun 02, 2017 - 11:46 AM

  You tie the rope that pulls the car out to the pin. When you pull the pin head up to release the car you tie a fat knot around it so the pin cant slip back down. That's how I rigged the cars on my 18 to be remote adjustable. It's a good solution compared to disabling the pin that way if the remote system fails you can just untie the knot and the slider still works is the normal manner.

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• MN3
  
  

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  Posted: Jun 02, 2017 - 12:10 PM

  Quote

  You tie the rope that pulls the car out to the pin. When you pull the pin head up to release the car you tie a fat knot around it so the pin cant slip back down.

  
  I see -
  yes if use or are converting your system to a remote setup - esp on a front beam purchase (where you will probably not have a good sheeting angle) - sure a bungee can have some use to pull your jib car inboard when your car wont slide gently
  
  In that situation my advice would be: throw away your boat and by my spare mystere

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• chipman
  
  

  • Rank: Lubber
  • Registered: May 31, 2017
  • Last visit: Jun 02, 2018
  • Posts: 8

  Posted: Jun 02, 2017 - 10:14 PM

  Thanks for the responses and ideas everyone!
  
  I will definitely use the middle block threading. I like the idea of a bigger block system too, after I actually sail the thing and see how the 4:1 does. Seems like they're readily available, unlike some other Sol Cat specific parts.
  
  There are hooks on the back of the beam for the dagger boards so I don't think that's it, can see them in the below photo. I agree that they'll shred someone but they're way too handy for stepping the mast, perhaps I'll make a Beam-Buddy cover for them. It's sort of small but what about rudimentary righting line being fixed there?
  
  I could see tying a bungee for retracting the jib traveler to that eyelet, I was considering just tying the bungee to both the travelers so it pulls on them both. I think the other cam cleat is exactly for a remote setup, see photo. I did tie it under the spring loaded part of the pin to keep it up, has pretty clean action. With this kind of rigging it looks like it'd work, though it'd be awkward to set the sheet as it's such low angle. Maybe I will take that Mystere. Deliver to Wyoming?
  
  
  I was really hoping there'd be another eyestrap on the rear beam but there's nothing. No sign of another one there.
  
  The previous owner complained about the jib block being a pain but I don't think he was tying off to the becket. Set up like this it seems like it'd work fine.
  
  
  Still puzzled by the eyelet. And the hooks, but at least they're useful.
  
  
  
  Edited by chipman on Jun 02, 2017 - 10:23 PM.

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