Refer to the link below. My boat has a harken furler. The jibsheets are rigged exactly per the rigging guide, with a 2:1 as shown in view #4 at the traveler car. What I don't get is when furling, for every foot the clew moves forward, the flying block in the red circle moves aft 2 feet due to the 2:1. As a result the flying block hits the block on the traveler when the jib is half furled. There must be some other way - maybe can't use the 2:1 with a furler?
Thanks much for your help.
https://drive.google.com/…OmRSeT1MVc18yNUdfZ0Q3Zmc
Inter 20, another rigging question - furler + jibsheets
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Posted: Apr 16, 2017 - 01:20 PM
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Posted: Apr 16, 2017 - 02:30 PM
Eric, speaking from experience get rid of the furler. You will be much happier. Earlier N20's did not have a self tacker, and even back then the furler was used by very few. Most sailors got rid of them. With the self tacker you really don't need the furler with the slot jib when sailing. Furlers are nice with big overlapping jibs but it just is not needed on the N20.
You still use the same jib. You can furl the jib when you finish sailing and want to keep the jib up. Release the clew, hand wrap the jib, then add a pigtail to the clew and cinch it up with the jib sheet.
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Philip
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Posted: Apr 16, 2017 - 04:18 PM
Here's what you need
Picture 4 in the manual is wrong. No block attached to the jib clew, Just a Scheckel. Then in pic 6, no single block on the end of that line, use the back to back block and tie the end back at the traveler car.
Edited by nacra55 on Apr 16, 2017 - 05:44 PM.
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Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
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Posted: Apr 16, 2017 - 06:51 PM
Philip- My boat will be stored in a hand launch boatyard. It can be pretty windy there and there and it's not a straight shot from the boat parking spot to the ramp. I want the furler to minimize sail flogging and the boat trying to sail away on the trailer between where I hoist the jib and the ramp-that's the only reason.
Ron-interesting. Your setup is a 2:1 on the main jibsheet (the one you pull on, not pictured), and a 1:2 on the piece of spectra going to the traveler, yielding 1:1 overall. I played around after posting, and if I run a single line from the flying block (where you have the back-to-back) through the traveler block, and straight to the clew I have enough sheet to furl and can keep the 2:1 system advantage. That only works if the flying block is almost to the pair of blocks on the sprit when the jib is sheeted. That's what I'll start with I think. -
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Posted: Apr 16, 2017 - 07:33 PM
Just put your sails up closer to ramp
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Doug Klem
Pensacola , Fl.
Blade F16
Prindle 18-2 w/spin
Prindle 18-2 x 3
Prindle 19 MX
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Posted: Apr 18, 2017 - 02:38 AM
We have a slightly different setup on our I20 where we went from a non-furling to a furling jib, so thought I'd share that:
- We removed the flying block in pic 6 - this effectively makes our jib sheet one long continuous line from crew's hand to the jib clew (thus no furling limitations), but does take out one 2:1
- We kept the existing block on the jib clew (so we still have 2:1 there)
- Our jib track originally had a double block (instead of a single block with becket) so we use that to run both lines coming from the clew block to the bowsprit blocks, and from there back to the jib sheet cleats (note: one of our sheet cleats is missing, so we actually just use the port cleat and tie off the second end of the sheet on the starboard bowsprit block). Sounds like you don't have a double block currently, but could consider adding one.
So I think we effectively went from 4:1 to 2:1 (similar to your new setup), but can now furl without limitations. We haven't noticed difficulty trimming with 2:1 yet (but have only had the boat 5 months). We're not that experienced with beach cats, so YMMV...
View of our setup from the bowsprit:
View of our double block on the jib track:
Edited by southstars2012 on Apr 18, 2017 - 02:58 AM.
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SL
Nacra Inter 20 (sold)
2017 Race to Alaska "Team Ketch me if u can"
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Sausalito CA
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Posted: Apr 18, 2017 - 02:53 AM
It does seem most I20s have migrated away from a furler (in fact we got our furler second-hand from an I20 who had long ago moved to a non-furling setup). I'd love to know more about why?
My sense is the main pros for a non-furling setup are:
- Better for racing (can rig up an adjustable jib downhaul back to the tramp, and batten angle is better)
- Less likely to break
- Mostly unnecessary for lighter air regions
I've gone back & forth on furler vs. no furler, and decided actually to add a furler when we got our I20 5 months ago. Mostly because we sail in a windy area (San Francisco) and want the option to depower both ashore and on the water (though certainly furling on the water would be a last resort) -- we still hoist/lower the jib each time we go out. Many of the Hobies around us have a furler, so it doesn't seem impractical...
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SL
Nacra Inter 20 (sold)
2017 Race to Alaska "Team Ketch me if u can"
- Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/TeamKetch/
- Race video highlights: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YTWp4DP0VcA
Sausalito CA
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Posted: Apr 18, 2017 - 09:24 AM
This is a very good reason to use a furler.
if you are mostly a racer, i can see getting rid of the furler
if you are mostly a cruiser, i would keep it for the reason stated above (YMMV)
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