Gloves :: Catamaran Sailboats at TheBeachcats.com

Gloves

nacraman57

Rank: Lubber

Registered: Apr 24, 2010

Last visit: May 04, 2018

Posts: 94
Posted: Feb 06, 2015 - 09:06 AM

Have a question for those of you who do a lot of polyester/epoxy/gelcoat work. What is your favorite glove for the particular application you are working on? I have used nitrile gloves in the past for polyester and epoxy (they were free) but they developed holes very quickly. Will be doing another bottom job on the 5.7 this spring and will be working with epoxy and gelcoat. Do you guys have a favorite glove between latex, nitrile or vinyl? Who is your favorite supplier? Usually when holes develop, I just get frustrated and finish barehanded and let the stuff wear off. Would like to avoid that next time
MN3

Rank: Master Chief

Registered: Jun 20, 2006

Last visit: Apr 06, 2024

Posts: 7088
Posted: Feb 06, 2015 - 09:52 AM

here is a chart that shows what glove works best with different hazardous materials

http://www.ansellpro.com/…micalResistanceGuide.pdf
Edchris177

Rank: Chief

Registered: Nov 26, 2009

Last visit: Apr 10, 2024

Posts: 2524
Posted: Feb 07, 2015 - 09:16 AM

In my experience latex is the worst, at least for epoxy resins, can't vouch for gelcoat.
It's not that they don't work, just that they tear easy, & the epoxy sticks to them like bear sh*t on a buffalo blanket. Your fingers stick together as soon as the mixture starts to kick. For some reason it also stays sticky on the glove, though it hardens in the plastic container. You must remove them using the "universal precaution" method to prevent contamination of your skin.
The last few years I found that the black nitrile mechanics gloves work much better. Just make sure you open a box & try them on beforehand, you might think MED will fit, but it is a real pain to end up with gloves that are too small. I don't hve big hands, & I use size Large.
The ones I'm using now are "Grease Monkey" brand, 5 mil. They are OK for basic mechanic & glass work. If you are going to do "rougher" work, a higher mil may be advised. The trade off is you lose flexibility, & they cost more. For a bottom job, where you are not trying to place small items in tight spaces, you can use the thicker 8 mil.
http://www.reliableparts.ca/product/inv_9042172
These are much tougher than latex, & can be re-used if you briskly rub off the resin with coarse paper shop towel. It sounds like cheapskate, but you can burn through quite a number, sometimes you can only do a job in small incremental bits.
Most nitrile do not come with talc. A bit of baby powder eases entry & removal, as you know if you wear them for more than few minutes on a warm day your hands get pretty sweaty.

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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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