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Need some advice for old school spin setup  Bottom

  • I want to use the spin on my Mystere 6.0XL. It was only used a couple of times by the PO, everything is in near new shape.
    It is bag launched,(plan on midpole setup later, but for now it's old school). I figured out most of the rigging, however the halyard had been pulled out of the spin pole, & there was no way to restring it without getting at the internal double block. Here is an older photo of how it was strung, you can see the double block mid photo. All these lines/blocks are now internal & turning block at end of pole removed as the line dead-ends at a hole & exits through another hole, visible in photo below..
    http://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=109141&g2_serialNumber=4
    I tried to remove an endcap, with no luck. I tried heat, a strap wrench,(thinking it might be threaded) & fitting a cold chisel against it & tapping.
    I did not know how the internal system worked, & decided that possibly one of the eyestrap rivets also held the end cap via a flange, so I drilled out the eyestrap, mistake #1.
    Here is how it looks after I restrung the internal lines/blocks;
    http://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=109117&g2_serialNumber=4
    I have SS rivets to re-attach the eyestrap, this eyestrap holds the lines that go to the bridal tangs, & are subject to pretty good loads.
    Therefore should I have washers on the inside of the pole, to distribute the load?
    Any ideas how the standard Mystere boats attach those end caps?
    2nd Q-
    The next 2 photos show the beam end of the pole. It appears an eyestrap on the front beam fits inside the pole, & a small diameter pine secures it.
    Is that all there is? Is that strong enough?
    http://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=109120&g2_serialNumber=4
    http://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=109123&g2_serialNumber=4
    Q3- Routing of the spin sheets. I have it figured out how the halyard exits the spin pole, goes up the mast, through the bail, then back down to a bullseye & cleat on the front beam.
    What about the sheets?
    I have 3" Harken Ratchets on the REAR BEAM, with a cleat behind them. The photos the PO gave me show the sheet being a continuous through these two block, sort of like a jib sheet. You can see the bitter ends at the blocks attached to the spin at the top left of photo. (Yellow line blue trace) They then travel outside the shrouds to the block on rear beam, through it, across the boat to the other block, & forward, around the the other small block on the spin.
    http://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=109137&g2_serialNumber=4
    There are 2 sets of exit blocks on the mast, one is for the downhaul, is the other supposed to be used for spin control?
    If it makes any difference this boat is a 10' beam.
    http://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=109132&g2_serialNumber=4



    Edited by Edchris177 on Jun 16, 2014 - 11:43 AM.

    --
    Hobie 18 Magnum
    Dart 15
    Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
    Nacra 5.7
    Nacra 5.0
    Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
    Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
    --
  • Q1, it doesn't take much to hold those end caps on. In the past they have been a friction fit most of the time. I'm guessing you got the rear cap off to string the system. You might try and knock the front one out with a long piece of rebar or conduit. Back-up washers would be nice, if you can't install them, you could make some synthetic loops to go around the pole, your stays would be attached to them and the eye straps would hold them in place.

    Q2, yes that is adequate.

    Q3, lose the cleats if they are on the blocks. You want some ratchets on the rear beam, most modern boats would have a block the sheet would run through after that beam block to ensure a better wrap on that ratchet. The front beam may be a little too far forward. You could consider one on the tramp or mounted to the side stay which would be easy. After that, the sheet would travel to another block on the ream beam mounted on a shock cord before going to the other side. That block is simply to take up some slack.

    That block on the mast could be used for your spin halyard, but it's not in a traditional location. Normally it would be on the starboard side to hoist as you round A mark.

    --
    Greenville SC

    Offering sails and other go fast parts for A-class catamarans
    --
  • QuoteI'm guessing you got the rear cap off

    Couldn't get either off, you can see on one that I dinged it up a bit trying to knock it out with a drift. Ended up drilling out one of the turning blocks used as an exit for the halyard in order to make an entry, then taping the line to a fid, climbing a ladder & dropping it down the vertical pole.
    QuoteBack-up washers would be nice

    I dropped a couple washers into the pole, (they fit into where a line exits) then shook the pole around til I could see them & hook it with a dental pick. Held it & squirted a bit of adhesive silicone into the hole, then centered the washers & let it set up. I could then insert the SS rivets with he washers held captive.
    Quotesynthetic loops to go around the pole

    Good idea. the PO has dyneema lines made to length, with "S" hook that drops into a fitting on the bow tangs.
    Quote most modern boats would have a block the sheet would run through after that beam block to ensure a better wrap on that ratchet.

    I understand that, I think. Another fellow showed me his end pole Inter 18 setup, & how the extra block was used just to obtain a better angle/grip.
    The cleats are separate from the block, looks like this. Don't know how the cleats were intended to work.
    http://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=109129&g2_serialNumber=4

    Quote Normally it would be on the starboard side to hoist as you round A mark.

    That is how it is set up, there is another block with cam cleat on the starboard side for the halyard. I should have been more clear, the Harken Exit block is on each side, there are actually 4 of them, 2 each side. I know 2 are to run the downhaul from either tack, but the other 2?
    Thanks for the advice, I've never used a spin before.
    Pulling SS rivets is a be-itch with only a 12" handle.



    Edited by Edchris177 on Jun 17, 2014 - 08:10 AM.

    --
    Hobie 18 Magnum
    Dart 15
    Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
    Nacra 5.7
    Nacra 5.0
    Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
    Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
    --
  • If you have pivoting exit blocks on both sides, I think those are/were for a mast rotation system using those empty cheek blocks on the mast.

    Now that I think about it, a block and cleat on the beam would be more common for a single line halyard/tack system like yours. For racing, I like the block almost at shoulder height on the mast so I can stand up and hoist, but that's not for everyone.

    --
    Greenville SC

    Offering sails and other go fast parts for A-class catamarans
    --

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