What size line are you 5.7 guys using for jib sheets? I want to replace mine (which seem to be 7/16, but I don't know if the dimension changes a little with age). Saltydog has a package with 5/16 (8mm) which seems a little small.
I know its mostly personal preference to the person handling the sheets, but just thought I'd get some input.
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Tim
Collierville (Memphis), TN
Supercat 15--sold :(
Hobie monocat--given
Vanguard 15--traded for...
Nacra 4.5--sold
Nacra 5.7
Hobie 14–sold to make room for...
Supercat 17–sold
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Nacra 5.7 jib sheets
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Posted: Aug 04, 2013 - 10:46 AM
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Posted: Aug 04, 2013 - 12:12 PM
I've ordered many lines and sheets from here, always very impressed, very strong, low stretch static lines.
http://www.mountainsports.com/MSmain.asp?Option=List&Cat=60&Sub1=60&ShowImages=Yes
Tim
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Tim Grover
1996 Hobie Miracle 20
Two Hobie 14's
1983 G-Cat Restored
Memphis TN / North Mississippi
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Posted: Aug 04, 2013 - 12:55 PM
Tim, congrats on the new boat ....it's a beauty. (I know, I'm biased!) The 5.7 is probably the best designed skeg boat ever built. Before you consider line may I make a suggestion...get a pair of oxen blocks for jib sheet control. Though they are pricey, it will be some of the best money you'll spend on that boat. When you need the jib released in a hurry like a tack in 20+ winds instead of bang bang banging the jib sheet against the cleat, the release is immediate. Same with crew adjusting jib tension on the wire.I send my blocks to Murray's every few years to replace the sheaves which get worn in time. Steve at Murray's told me to start with 3/8" spun Dacron for the new blocks and when the sheaves wear and loose their grip go down to 5/16 to get a little more life out of them. He even told me he's heard of sailors using fabric softener to "soften" the Dacron. I've never tried it. However, 5/16 seems a little light for "snapping" the cleat, especially in heavy air.
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Posted: Aug 05, 2013 - 10:48 AM
A lot of beachcats came with 5/16" Dacron jibsheet line from the factory.
All Prindles, the later Hobies and most NACRAs.
Don't be afraid to use it.
I still use 5/16" dacron in the stock jib blocks on my cat. In heavy air there is a technique to snapping out the sheet, but it is easily learned as long as you set up the cleats on the jib blocks to be higher than the angle in which it normally sits.
This way when you pull on the line, it is already starting to come out of the cleat, and when you snap the wet, heavy dacron line it pops out.
The Oxen blocks Nacraman57 suggests are awesome, and are about $300 each.
To keep them in top shape you will have them rebuilt as Nacraman57 mentions, which adds to the cost.
He uses the largeer line in the Oxen blocks because the sheaves are that wide at the opening. As the texture in the sheave wears out, he uses smaller line that goes deeper into the sheave to where the texture is still intact.
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Sheet In!
Bob
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Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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Posted: Aug 05, 2013 - 11:40 AM
should be noted that setting up the jib blocks optimal for the skipper will not be optimal for crew (as they are sitting further forward).
Often it is next to impossible to "snap" the line out of the cleat from the crew postion if the blocks are set that way.... (i usually will uncleat the jib for the crew, and let them do all the other jib sheeting actions).
PS i use Samson 5/16" xls Yacht Braid (double braid polyester rope) for my jib sheets. high tec line is too light to "snap" the line out of the cleat[/list]
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Posted: Aug 05, 2013 - 07:34 PM
Exactly! That's what I love about these blocks.....just a 1/2" pull from any position on the boat. Works very well for the crew trapped out. Also, if you're on one hull approaching the point of no return the crew can instantly depower the jib with just a tug and quickly recover trim. $279.00 a pop from Murray's. I got both of mine for $125.00 off Ebay and used them 4 years before replacing the sheave liners...$45.00 each -
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Posted: Aug 06, 2013 - 07:08 AM
you were lucky that you found a used pair in such good condition.
unless i was a pro racer, i cant justify spending almost $600 on 2 blocks, esp knowing they will need service in a few years (probably months with the amount i sail)
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Posted: Sep 17, 2013 - 09:56 PM
I use the old 5/16 the boat came with.
Difficulty un-cleaning the jib blocks can be solved by adding a small "Pigtail" between block & car, to raise the block off the hull another 1/2". That way, when you "snap" the line, it actually has room to pull away from the cleat. And "snap" towards the stern a little, not straight down. Also, adjust cleat all the "up" on the block, makes it a bit easier. -
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Posted: Sep 18, 2013 - 05:46 PM
i have oxen blocks on my 5.8 and love them compared to the original blocks which gave my crew fits to uncleat (especially the newbies.) i started with 3/8" line and have had to move to 5/16" since my line started to wear at exactly the same points where it was usually cleated in the oxen blocks. plus the sheaves are getting smooth from the line running free when the block is released.
i have one caveat for anyone considering oxen blocks, and that is this: they don't cleat in really light air 'cause the sail isn't pulling enough to force the line into the grooves. especially bad with the jib flogging. other than that, they are great, especially on the wire.
there have also been several versions (three?) of oxen blocks. the improvements include seals to keep water from the center bearings. if you buy used, make sure to ask. not sure if murray's will rebuild the older versions.
j
Edited by arch on Sep 18, 2013 - 05:50 PM.
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Posted: Sep 18, 2013 - 06:33 PM
I have oxen blocks and love them like everyone else. I use 5/16" line. Stock for the boat is 40' of 5/16".
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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