I just picked up an 83 N5.0 and am wondering about the jib. The owners manual shows the sails zips up the luff. The jib that came with the boat has hanks down the luff of the jib. It matches the main so I'm assuming its correct. Did any of the 5.0's come like this?
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Mac
Midlands South Carolina
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NACRA 5.0 jib question
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Posted: Oct 21, 2012 - 05:32 PM
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Posted: Oct 21, 2012 - 07:14 PM
Might be a Sol Cat jib--they came with hanks. All Nacra jibs I've seen are zipper luff. Pete -
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Posted: Oct 21, 2012 - 08:35 PM
I have 5 Nacra jibs, for an '84 5.7, & an '88 5.0. They are all Skip Elliot from Newport Beach, & as Pete says, they are all full length zippers.
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Posted: Oct 21, 2012 - 11:04 PM
My '83 5.0 Jib is of the hank-on variety and also matches the main.
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1983 Nacra 5.0 Sail #10
Dallas, Texas area
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Posted: Oct 22, 2012 - 03:26 AM
It has the skip Elliot insignia on it
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Mac
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Posted: Oct 22, 2012 - 03:37 AM
Here's a picture.
Flyingfishguy, does your jib rig like the zippered variety? Seems you would end up a slack forestay like the Hobie 16's? Obviously I haven't rigged the boat yet, and won't be able to as I have taken it apart for some refurbishment. The jib rigging isn't stock and I'm going to have to replace as I redo stuff. It's has a big block shackled to the mast with rope line to raise the jib. I've seen in the manual that there is a wire with a block on it and rope line for the jib halyard.
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Mac
Midlands South Carolina
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Posted: Oct 22, 2012 - 08:32 AM
Your forestay will not be slack, if your rig is tensioned properly. Tension the rig as per normal ops, then the jib is hoisted up the fore stay, but the jib will not be tensioned nearly as tight as the fore stay. The fore stay will still hold the majority of the load.
In some ways the hanked on jib is easier, pull the halyard with one hand, while you slip the clips on with the other. In a blow it can be a 3 handed job to raise the jib, while trying to zip it, & keep it aligned so you don't wreck the zipper.
The setup, as shown in the manual, uses a wire that attaches via a shackle to the head of jib. It runs up the fore stay,(pulling the jib along with it), around the wire block that is attached to the mast, then down to the mast base. Understand that you need an additional length to allow the jib to be dropped, this length is made of thin line. After the jib is raised, this additional line can either be unhooked,(via a sister clip), or stored in the tramp pocket along with the main halyard. This line is attached to the top end of the wire, but the knot is not neat, it is tied with a tail left hanging...I think my 5.7 leaves about 1.5'.
Once you raise the jib you use the tail to tension it, & stow the main portion of the halyard. It would look like this;
The wire at the top of photo runs from the head of the jib,(travelling left to right) & is hauling the jib up the fore stay. It then goes around the wire block, & down the mast. Your 5.0 is rigged slightly different in that it only uses a 2:1 downhaul, therefore your rope line is attached directly to the wire line. (omit the block with becket you see in the photo). It is tied with a long tail. Once the jib is raised you run the tail through a jam cleat mounted on the mast. Pull the tail to tension the jib & cleat,(the block up at the mast hound gives you 2:1), stow the rest of the line in the tramp pocket.
My photo shows the 5.7, which uses a 3:1 downhaul. The only difference is the long tail is run from the becket down & through a cheek block at the bottom of the mast, back up through the block, then down to the jam cleat.
HTH
Edited by Edchris177 on Oct 22, 2012 - 08:36 AM.
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Posted: Oct 22, 2012 - 12:03 PM
The bottom of your post shows you owning an F16 Viper so obviously you are no beginner. The only thing I can add to this discussion is to tell you these NACRA skeg boats like a tight rig with an almost perpindicular mast. My 5.0 and 5.7 masts are just a few degrees aft. On a calm day rig the mainsail and honk down on the sheet and downhaul. Raise the jib just to the point of taking the wrinkles out of the luff so the forestay is taking the load. Whether you stow your line or use sister clips, make a mark to refer to when raising the jib in a stiff breeze for proper tension. It is critical (especially on the 5.0) to have a neutral to slight weather helm on the tiller. Lee helm is to be avoided at all costs as the boat will want to gybe and dig the lee hull when trying to go out on the wire in a stiff breeze. I would rather experiment with setting the nylock screws in the rudder casting for rudder rake than raking the mast way back. It takes some trial and error but if you are fighting the tiller something is not right. My '83 has a zippered luff but my brother-in-law's '83 has the hanks. Maybe the hanked jibs were ordered by ex Hobie 16 owners??? -
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Posted: Oct 22, 2012 - 01:36 PM
Thanks. I'm guessing it wouldn't be too hard to make the jib rigging pieces myself. I have a swags tool, just have to find the lengths, wire sizes, and which blocks to get.
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Mac
Midlands South Carolina
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Posted: Oct 22, 2012 - 05:09 PM
That is my exact same jib. The only time I had any issue with a slack forestay is when I converted it to roller furling and pulled the halyard so hard that the jib was taking the load of the forestay. No zipper on the luff just hanks. As far as the wire halyard goes I have removed it and replaced it with a skinny spyderline.
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1983 Nacra 5.0 Sail #10
Dallas, Texas area
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Posted: Oct 22, 2012 - 05:17 PM
I missed the point of your question, though. Yes, the wire halyard attached to the head of the jib then routed up over a little block attached just below the mast hound then connected to a length of line down thru a jam cleat at the base of the mast to secure. Excess halyard could be sister-clipped and removed or just stuffed in the pocket.
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1983 Nacra 5.0 Sail #10
Dallas, Texas area
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Posted: Oct 22, 2012 - 11:49 PM
I will be up at the lake house on Thurs, dissembling the 5.0 for winter. I can send you the lengths of my rig.
One thing to consider, do you want it stock, as the manual shows, or will you convert to roller furling?
The photo I posted above was the original factory way to rig the jib on the 5.7.
When I converted to roller furling, I got rid of the wire portion of the halyard, & used Spyderline. I will do the same thing with the 5.0 in the spring. If you go to an all line setup, the only difference is you don't use the wire block shown in the photo. It would be changed to a small block meant for line. If you go roller furling, the block gets moved from the mast to the pigtail on the forestay.
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Posted: Oct 23, 2012 - 03:16 AM
I've got a furler around somewhere, that might be a good upgrade. I assume I'll need to get the pigtail with swivel on it? If you don't mind, shoot me your numbers and a pic if possible of your set up with the furler. Thanks!
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Mac
Midlands South Carolina
AHPC Viper USA 366
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Posted: Oct 23, 2012 - 07:01 AM
If you already have the furler, the rest is only a few $$. Here is how I did mine on the 5.7, along with some setups others have used.
I'll send the lengths of Fri.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=88268
Edited by Edchris177 on Oct 23, 2012 - 07:02 AM.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
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Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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Posted: Oct 26, 2012 - 02:01 PM
The 5.0 uses 20' of wire, followed by 20' of 3/16" line.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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