I have a 82 Prindle 16 and love it, there is nothing like being solo, trapped out, and flying a hull. I have been sailing cats for one year. Sometimes when i am sailing the mast does not want to rotate after a tack and i have to rotate the mast by hand or get the crew to do it. I have played with mast rake and the mast bearing to help improve this with no luck.
In the fall of 09 I bought a Prindle 18 for parts. The boats are the same except for length and mast rotation control. I was wondering if yall think it would be a good idea to install the mast rotation control on my P16.
What are the disadvantages of doing this?
What are any advantages of doing this, except aiding in the rotation of the mast during tacking?
Thanks for any help
Keith
Prindle 16 Mast rotation control
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Posted: Apr 27, 2010 - 12:13 PM
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Posted: Apr 27, 2010 - 12:40 PM
I doubt that there are any disadvantages...you don't have to use it.
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Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
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Posted: Apr 27, 2010 - 12:46 PM
Even more fun (IMHO) with 2 trapped out in a real blow! :)
For starters it is odd that your mast wont rotate on its own (and its not good in heavy air.. you can get WEIRD shapes in your mast, and get overpowered that way). seems to me like perhaps the forestay or jib are overtight? if not something else is possibly wrong..
there are 2 types of (typical) rotator controls:
1. is a limiter and it faces aft. it usually has a line tied to the boom. It is needed on bigger cats to help de-power when needed. it does not assist in turning the mast after a tack (unless you use it as a grip and pull it), but prevents the mast from over-rotating and becoming overpowered. TYPICALLY you point the limiter at the shrouds. in heavy air you can point it to the rear beam to reduce the pocket in the sail.
2. is a positive rotator control (faces forward) that forces the mast to over-rotate (or limit over-rotation) and is more typical in cats without booms. This system requires lines on both port and starboard (that run down the front beam) to blocks and cleats. you MUST release and reset before and after every tack.. so its more controlls to mess with, and if you forget to release it prior to the tack.. you risk ripping a cleat out, block off, bend/break a mast... etc.
so neither is really going to help you auto-rotate... the first type can give you a place to grip the mast better, but i would continue to find the cause of your rotation problems.
The real reason to add a limiter is if you are being overpowered and capsizing often. but i think the sailplan handles this issue (as this "upgrade" is not often done to P16's or h16's
edited by: andrewscott, Apr 27, 2010 - 12:47 PM -
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Posted: Apr 27, 2010 - 01:28 PM
If you have been sailing for only a year, more than likely you are not going through all the steps when tacking. When getting ready to tack a P-16 either from the wire or from on deck, as you push the helm to leeward and are mid tramp and just before you pass the tiller aft around the main sheet blocks, you should be just past head to wind by then. (UNCLEAT THE MAIN SHEET AND LET ABOUT 12 OR 18 INCHES OF SHEET AND RECLEAT, BUT DO NOT SHEET IT IN ANY UNTIL YOU ARE BEARING AWAY ON THE NEW TACK) just make sure that you are past head to wind, do not do it before or you make stall and blow the tack. That will allow the mast to rotate around for the new tack. It is a common mistake for new sailors not to let off a little mainsheet while tacking -
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Posted: Apr 27, 2010 - 01:29 PM
Thanks Andrew, I think that I understand now. Next time i go out I will use less tension in the forestay.
I have never double trapped before but it is on my to do list. -
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Posted: Apr 27, 2010 - 03:04 PM
Glad to help. Please consult with other P16 sailors on how (tight) they rig if you can. its best to talk and see how others with experience do it. -
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Posted: Apr 27, 2010 - 03:52 PM
I don't know of any active cat sailors in my area, but always ready to meet any one that loves to sail.
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Posted: Apr 27, 2010 - 06:04 PM
Please look at my reply and try it. Most times things have a simple solution, some people try and make it more than it is. As per the Prindle 16 manual "TACKING- before starting your tack, be sure you are sailing to weather with good speed(sheeted in and traveler to center). Do not try and attempt to tack while sailing on a reach. Make a smooth turn to windward using about one-half the amount of rudder throw. Turning the rudders too sharply will stall the boat and bring it to an abrupt stop. When the bows are pointing into the wind, release the main sheet 1 or 2 feet. Leave the jib cleated. The skipper should now move aft, into the center and swing the hiking stick to the new side. Do not straighten the rudders out, if you do you will find youself in irons (boat pointing directly into the wind and making no headway. Leave the jib cleated until the boat is on its new heading. When the main "pops" to the new side, release the jib and bring it across quickly and sheet in. While the crew is sheeting in the jib, the skipper should be sheeting in the main and moving to the proper position on the winward side of the boat. The tack is now completed.
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Posted: Apr 27, 2010 - 09:35 PM
Sorry Hullflyer, I think you are right, I might not be letting off on the main sheet enough. I can not wait to get out on the water and try it out. This weekend will be the first time on the boat this year. -
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Posted: Apr 29, 2010 - 12:20 AM
I had the exact same problem with my new to me p16 last
summer. Never had that problem with my h18. Will have to pay more attention to the sheet, but I don't believe that was the problem. I did not have my tensions all that tight.
.
edited by: pknapp66, Apr 29, 2010 - 12:20 AM
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Pete Knapp
Schodack landing,NY
Goodall Viper,AHPC Viper,Nacra I20
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Posted: May 02, 2010 - 11:29 AM
I just wanted to say that I took the boat out yesterday and had absolutely no problems with mast rotating during tacks.
I did not rig the boat as tight as i usually do thanks Andrew. -
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Posted: May 03, 2010 - 03:57 PM
glad to help
as a general rule of thumb i try to make my rig as tight as i can without it effecting rotation.
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