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Reply to: Inter 20 a few questions

[quote=Andinista][quote=pknapp66] Have you had an occasion to use the righting pole and can you right the boat solo? Do you have any pictures of how you set up the pole? I am concerned about being able to right our I20 with a 300 lb crew. I had the same thought about using the righting bag as a sea anchor to slow the boat. I had the experience of swimming after our capsized tornado after a trap wire broke and dropped me in the drink. Was tough to catch the boat. Maybe an anchor is the answer. Pete[/quote] I tested it with near to 0 wind and worked very well. My boat is smaller, a N5.5, but you just need to go further out on the pole. (yes, length matters here ..) The first and only real life test was a bit messy because the system was too complex and I struggled to deploy it. I simplified it and I'm still waiting for a real capsize, after a few years .. No pictures, sorry. Just a diagram. I'll try to explain. [img]https://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=132327&g2_serialNumber=3[/img] In the base of the pole there is a rope loop that goes around the daggerboard to fix that end of the pole (not shown on the diagram) Near the other end, there is an eyestrap with a carabiner, to fit a rope going to each beam near the upper hull. There is a knot on that rope to attach the carabiner to, at a fixed position. That rope has to work on each side. It is attached to both corners of the rear beam and goest through SS rings on the corners of the front beam (the mentioned knot has to go through those rings, so pulleys won't work). The lenght has to be set up for the desired angle of the pole. When stored, I just roll the excess length around the pole, on the rear of the boat, as in the diagram, and hold it in position with a bungee with a hook. The original design had an automatic retraction system, with a bungee. Too complicated so I took it out. The pole will be stored set up on one side, with the carabiner attached to the corresponding knot of the other side. If you capsize to the other side, just unhook the carabiner, pull the rope on the other side and hook it again. The pole is stored under the beams, fixed with bungees whith hooks. It is important to put it near the hull, Initially it was about 5 inches or so away from the hull (it went through the dolphin striker in the front) but the trampoline started to show signs of wear because of the friction. Closer to the hull it doesn't touch the trampoline and there's less movement and pressure above it. For the front beam attachment of the ss ring, I didn't add a specific eyestrap. I had an eyestrap already, and a loop of rope around the beam, passing through that eyestrap. The ring goes through that rope. Two benefits: I'm not pulling the eyestrap rivets when using the pole, but the rope around the beam. Second Benefit is that you can attach other things to that rope loop, I do the jam preventer bungee and a towing line for the boat, for instance. On the pole, it's important not to rely on eyestraps either, they just keep the attachment point from moving along the pole, but there is a rope around the pole to take the load. Note: I don't hang on the pole but sit on it and move back until the boat starts to come out. It helps to have a rightning line deployed too, the lines that hold the pole are pretty thin. Here is one of the videos from which I got the idea [url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTRS5pTZGV4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTRS5pTZGV4[/url] What I didn't like of that one is that it is slow to deploy. Also I wasn't sure of the requiered length so I didn't want it stored across but along the hulls. The pole I use is an old carbon fiber windsurf mast. Years ago I tried with an aluminum tube an it broke in half.<!-- editby --><em>Edited by Andinista on Oct 03, 2019 - 09:09 AM.</em><!-- end editby --> [/quote]

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