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Reply to: Roll and tip using interlux brightside

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[quote=tominpa][quote=ec]I have a question for Tom. If I start at the bow working back but rolling with a 6 in foam roll going all the way around vertical  then tipping horizontal which would be about a 10 inch Tipp Swipe?  Is that how you would do this? I am not sure what you meant. Understand the rest and thanks for the good advice. I always like to hear from folks who have experience such as you and tiber.[/quote]

The reason I started from the stern on my boat is that the bows have a lot more surface on top that needs to blend to the sides.  As I approach the bow, the outside and top remained wet as I made the turn and started back toward the stern, so all of top blended with the sides.  If you start on the outside of the bow, by the time you get back around, you will have a mostly dry edge to try to blend where the top meets the side.  As you note, your Prindle does not have a lip which would make a nice stopping point for painting the bows allowing the top and sides to be done separately.  Where you don't have a hard edge or separation, it is important to complete the part as continuously as possible.

The stern blends easily, and is mostly covered by the tramp, crossbar and rudders anyway.  So by far, the bows are more visible, and will show any blending errors. I completed the flat back section with the rudder pin mounts and painted the top just past the inside top edge, and then had a very short bit to blend when returning to the stern to complete.

Tipping technique I used was to roll the section, then tip horizontally back towards the completed section (about 2-feet).  The paints blend very well as long as you don't try to paint into something partially dry.  I used good quality 3-inch foam brushes with tapered tips. I tired using a good quality bristle brush, but got better results using the foam, and replaced when they got too flexible or began to deteriorate. It usually took me 4 brushes for each coat, but the Perfection is harder on the foam.

You are suggesting starting at the bow and painting both sides and top in short sections.  That could work, but it is a lot of ducking back and forth under the hull. I think that would be simply exhausting, and harder if you're wearing Tyvek and trying to juggle a roller, brush and paint container.  I found I could paint longer sections up to 2-3 feet on one side with plenty of time to tip.  The top of the hull was below eye level chest-high, and the bottom of my hulls were about mid-thigh to knee height.  If I had to continuously duck under that hull I would have paint all over me, rub marks on the hull, and an aching back. Your idea may work, but do a quick dry run and see if it's practical for you.

The quality of your paint job will be seen as you sight down length of the hull, especially the outside. Each long side is more important to the appearance than along the top edge or especially side to side. The good news is it's paint. You can fix it, and you have two coats to figure it out.<em>Edited by tominpa on Mar 19, 2018 - 05:25 PM.</em> [/quote]

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