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Reply to: More 5.2 advice

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[quote=erice][quote=halliske]
Q 1..  The jib zipper is missing a few (2) teeth and is soo stiff.. I think the slider is bad.  Tried silicone.. Bit of help.. Slides down  but get stuck when unzipping..   I am rather sure I can zip it all the way to the foot however.. ...I think I can fish the forestay in the pocket prior to setpping the mast.  How about raising the mast with a trap line to keep the sail clear of that operation and attaching the chain plate  to the forstay using the tention from the trap line... Found a new zipper at Elloits but the repair is a few bucks..  I would like to get her on the water prior to spending bucks on repairs.  Thinking about a roller reef add on..

my jib zip has also lost a few teeth, but it gets by. i hear $5 will buy you a new slider, maybe try that 1st

Q2..  I dont understand why the DS needs to be changed to use the larger mast ball??  I was going to get a new mast base cuz I trailer and like the captive feature..  I have a ball from a 6.0 that I just sold and it slips ober the DS post with just a tiney  bit of slop..  Seems like it would work fine with a bit of epoxy..  Perhaps that is not needed becaust the preasure is more downward and not as much side to side..  The mast base alone is not 150$ acording to the Murrys cat..

the old DS rod was found to bend, so the new kit is actually; new safer/pinned base, thicker DS rod on bigger nylon ball, probably could use the N6.0 ball for a bit but if you want the captive base anyway...

Q3  Anyone got a pix of how the jib hallyard fastens at the base of the mast.  I am used to the cleats on Hobies to secure that line..  On mine N. 5.2 the sheet is "tied" to the pulley that conects to the wire to raise the jib.  Seems like that is wrong..  Where does that line anchor??

just put the jib halyard through through the jam cleat on the mast. it was designed to go through the mast saddle, back up to the small block and then down to the jam cleat for 2:1 purchase and jib luff adjustment but unless you are racing 1-design with experienced crew it's more trouble than it's worth...

Q4..  Cant seem to find out how the "pivmatic" piece works on the tiller..   I Like the idea that it helps kick up over obstructions but not sure how it works.  Forum folks all recomend adding it..

without the pivotmatic you could rip you transoms out.....it's a bugger to thread the bungee through when fitting

Q5..  Also confused about the trap lines.   Going to solo a lot and cant seem to imagine a b. cord in the front x member working well..   How about aft where the tramp laces??

front bungee in front beam is only for crew trap line, too far forward for helm. helm bungee runs through tramp just aft of dagger well, as per pic in other thread

Q6..  The boat came with 3 (yes 3) new daggers.  HOWEVER.   they are thinner than the originals.  The seem a bit sloppy in the wells??  Problem??  Also got to install bungi to hold them up..

you need bits of carpet glued in at top and bottom of well on both sides. thickness and amount of carpet important to get nice sliding fit. oem pre-1984? 5.2' had a bungee going forward from the top of the dagger but this can wear/damage the well in the hull so they switched to a side loader bungee, lots of pics about on the web but the key is getting the carpets bits right

Q Last.    Righting line.  My boat has the caps removed from the front x member and a piece of 3/8 line attached to a nut through the member with several hand holds.  It stuffs in the x mamber till needed.  Has one on each side.  pull out as needed.  Workable??

most recommend tying around the mast base and throwing over the high hull. needs to hold you flat just above the water. i've never righted mine solo as; i'm too light, on a lake the swell doesn't help you, and lake gusts that flip you over are too flukey to pick you up

Thanks in advance.  Love this forum[/quote][/quote]

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