[quote=P.M.]Ed,
#1 Hole is for NDR.
#2 CE=Center of Effort, CLR=Center of Later Resistance
#3 You should tighten up the casting with the pivot bolt, it will flex but be careful. This will take up the slop. You should have a large plastic shim between the blade and the casting on each side. You can make one out of a milk jug or order from Murrays. One other thing, the clevis pin that the rudder hold down line goes over, . . . it should have an aluminum tube over it that acts like a roller bearing.
Your Pivmatics (cleats) are not aluminum (factory cleats never are). Look carefully and see if the teeth are worn dull or grooved. If the teeth are worn your line will always slip, creating excessive weather helm. The hold down line should be a high quality double braid or similar. Stretch isn't your problem here. The idea is to have a quality FRESH line that retains in round shape in the cleat, and resists the repeated abrasion on the same spot.
Another thing. Keep an eye on the rivets that connect the tiller arm to the casting. They can get loose and add more slop.
Replace the return bungees when they start to break down, I used 5/16" bungee and loaded it with a fair bit of tension. My opinion is that when everything in rudder system is tuned and functioning as designed, the system works perfectly.[/quote]
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