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Catamaran Soft Deck Repair With Expoxy Injection

Added by DamonLinkous on Apr 17, 2013 - 03:49 PM

Hull Repair on an Old Hobie
By Rob Morse (prindle599), written April 17, 2013

Repair catamaran soft decksSoft decks are not a death sentence for your old boat.  It took me a few hours to re-bond the inner skin of the deck to the foam core to repair the soft decks.  It took longer to refinish the deck than to make that structural repair.  The repair isn't difficult, but it does take some feel to get right.  The old Hobie decks have a thick outer laminate, a foam core, and a light weight inner skin.  In my case, this inner skin came away from the core and I glued it back together.  Here is the short version of how it's done before I give you a full step by step description.

  • Drill holes in the outer skin.
  • Carefully drill through the foam core by hand.
  • Inject thickened epoxy between the inner skin and the core.
  • Pull the cores together with sheet metal screws.
  • Let cure and remove the screws.
  • Fill the holes with thickened epoxy.
  • Sand, fill and refinish the deck.

It sounds easy, and it is if you take it step at a time.  Read through the directions several times.  Do all the preparation work you can before you mix epoxy, and don't forget to chock the trailer wheels if the boat is on a trailer (Free lesson number 1.  Yes, I chased the trailer around the garage.) The size of the hole we drill is determined by the size of the syringe tip we use to inject the epoxy. 

I used a standard syringe with Luer Lock syringe tip.  The screw is a number 8 sheet metal screw (#8 x 1) and the drill is a #17 of .173 inch diameter.

Required repair tools-
drill motor, #17 drill bit, tape, rubber gloves, permanent marker, 20cc syringe, rubber tubing, mixing cups, stirring sticks, paper towels, shop apron, #8x1 sheet metal screws, small instrument screwdriver.

Footnote: Thank you Rob (prindle599) for taking time to document and write this up for the community.


Aligning Rudders on a Nacra 6.0

Added by delaunhe on Apr 19, 2010 - 02:16 PM
Today I set out to align my rudders on my Nacra 6.0 na. I had to do this since I broke my tiller bar twice. Yeah, twice…….. FYI……never jump on the boat from behind, because you will end up breaking the tiller bar. I broke it the second time when trying to drag the boat down to the water with the rudders on the boat.

Share Catamaran Repair Tips at TheBeachcats.com

Added by damonAdmin on Aug 08, 2008 - 01:23 PM

Stern DamageA lot of you have done a lot of catamaran sailing this season with the normal wear and tear on your boats. Sometimes the wear (or tear) is a little beyond the "normal" category. When that happens, don't forget your fellow catamaran sailors who might have the same situation in the future.

As you do your repair, or fix your problem, please take a moment during this stressful time to take pictures and make a few notes about how the problem happened, any warning signs, and how you fixed it.

Nothing fancy is needed, a phone camera, disposable camera, or professional SLR will all result in pictures to tell the story. As soon as you have the pictures, upload them to an album in the Beachcats Technical section of the photo gallery to help the next sailor with the same problem. You can easily come back later and add more detailed information to the pictures.

If you are currently struggling with a problem on your boat, check out the Beachcats Technical and you might find a solution.


Repairing a Dented Mast

Added by damonAdmin on Dec 15, 2005 - 02:52 AM
Repairing a dent in a mast sail track.



I have had two masts that had a dent near the sail track, and was able to repair them with this method. Here's a photo of the Prindle 19 mast that I just received. As you can see, the area is pinched enough to cause problems when raising the main.



I use thin hardened metal as spacers to spread out the pressure that is applied with a tapered device. In other words, I drive a screwdriver in between a couple putty knives. To keep the straight side from getting damaged, be sure to use a thicker piece of metal as a backer on that side. I started out with two putty knives and advanced to a heavier piece of stainless steel when the track was opened up a little. As you can see in the mast dent repair photos, it does a great job of opening the track back up.



When you have a straight opening in the groove, you might touch up the area with a fine metal file.



Good luck,



Jack Hoying

Fort Loramie, Ohio

Footnote: Thanks for sharing Jack!


Building Your Own Catamaran Sails

Added by damonAdmin on Dec 07, 2005 - 11:20 PM
Amateur Sail Builder, Rolf NilsenAmateur sail building..



Scene: The sails on your catamaran looks (and pulls) like they have been trough both WWI and II. However you are seriously short on money, as the "admirals" priorities have your boat a long way down on the list (mortgages on the house, food, electricity and even gas are higher on the list, go figure..). So, what do you do? You gather all the creativity and initiative you normally pump into your sailing sessions, make a good deal on some sailcloth, keep on chanting "Navigare necesse est!" and build your own sails.



When we bought our current Tornado in 2001, a set of sails from year 2000 came with the boat. The Tornado class changed their sailplan after the 2000 Sidney Olympics, so these sails were a first generation cut. We used these sails both for training and competition until 2004, when we bought a well used asymmetric spinnaker from the Swedish Olympic Tornado team. Strangely enough, there was a huge difference in the power and speed this asymmetric developed compared with our 2000 asymmetric (I'm being ironic).



After this discovery, we began studying our main and jib with a critical eye. Compared to other T's, we were lacking both power and windward ability. A common problem with sails where the draft has moved aft. When hit by a gust, the boat wanted to heel instead of squirting forward, no matter how much we "massaged" the downhaul during gusts.Wanting to stay competitive with the fleet on the beat, it was time for some new sails. Besides, the old sails were literally falling apart. The luff tape on the main was so worn that hoisting and unhooking the main was a chore at every outing.

Footnote: Thanks Rolf! I'm sure this will benifit some enterprising beachcat sailors.


15 Class Legal Repair Tips for the Hobie 17 Catamaran

Added by damonAdmin on Mar 08, 2004 - 12:46 PM
The reintroduction of the Hobie 17.

I have sailed the Hobie 17 for 16 years and this is great news for the best solo catamaran that I have ever sailed. There is an opportunity for the makers and owners to make some non-performance modifications to make a great boat even better . Lets begin with things on the boat that have failed on me and the possible remedies.

Cross Beam inner gunnel securing bolt bearing plate .
Fault - It's small size and relative fore and aft alignment of the bolt hole and pop rivet securing holes causes the cross beam to crack around its underside at this point. Remedy - Make this plate " U " shaped , wider and longer to separate this hole alignment and give the bolt more support .

Footnote: If catamaran sailors out there have tips like these for other catamarans, please share them here.


Adding Wings to the Hobie 14 Catamaran

Added by damonAdmin on Mar 05, 2004 - 04:31 PM

I put this little beastie together when my first Hobie 17 tore itself apart . After 12 years sailing Hobie 17 catamarans and being quite partial to the comfort and mechanical advantage of trapezing from a wing, returning to a Hobie 14 while my 17 insurers decided what to do with me (and I had sailed Hobie 14's from 1972 to 1987) was going to be quite a letdown .

Not so, as this is only recreational sailing (there isn't any 14 competition in Western Australia any more), I could put wings on a Hobie 14 catamaran and go like a striped ape! That is indeed how she performed, with a VMG to windward far better than the local Hobie 16 catamarans.

Footnote: Barry Sanders is an official Australian Correspondent for TheBeachcats.com, watch for more from "down under".


Capsize prevention system (TORUS) for the Hobie 17 Catamaran

Added by damonAdmin on Dec 09, 2003 - 12:43 AM
Introducing TORUS™ (Tip Over Resisting and Uprighting System) for the Hobie 17. Here's a system that promises to make catamaran sailing more accessable for those that feel capsizing is not an option. Read how inventor Ron Darby has solved his capsize problems on the Hobie 17...

For 33 years I have lived on year-around warm, windy and relatively flat Kaneohe Bay on Oahu, Hawaii. I have enjoyed all kinds of sail boating on the Bay including sailboards and full keel monohulls. However, since my son-in-law started bringing Hobies here about 16 years ago, I spend most of the time fooling with them.

I started soloing his Hobie 17 and a few years ago I was humbled with capsizing, and though the buoyant mast stopped the turtling, I could not get it up without the help of a passing boat. I’m 158 lbs. & 71 yrs. and just couldn’t overcome the windage from the tramps and upper hull.

Footnote:

Catamaran sailors are an inventive bunch, as Ron Darby proves!


Build Your Own Trap Seat Wings for your Hobie 16 Catamaran

Added by damonAdmin on Nov 11, 2003 - 08:20 PM
I really liked sailing my Hobie 16 with my wife and dog when we first got the boat last summer, and wanted to enjoy exploring the lakes around the parkland area. But after about an hour of cruising, sitting up at the helm got a little hard on the back, and I got jealous of the wife being able to lie out on the trampoline in the sun. So I started looking for some way to put a lawn chair on the cat.

The wings that existed for the Hobie 18 seemed a solution, but I wanted a more comfortable answer for day-long cruising. I found some references to trap seats but they seemed too expensive for a lawn chair. So using the few grainy pics that I could find on the internet as reference, I got to work making my own.

Footnote: Great project for those that have the skills and tools to attempt it!


Catamaran Sailboats Delamination Repair Instructions

Added by damonAdmin on Nov 01, 2003 - 08:29 PM

This article will explain the step-by-step method of repairing soft spots in your beach catamaran hulls. This technique uses the method of injecting thickened epoxy into a catamaran hull using a syringe.

This method is well suited to repairing soft spots in catamaran hulls. The soft spots can be found by pressing carefully with your fingers on the hull. Usually they are on the top or upper side of a hull.  When you apply pressure to a soft spot, the area will detent slightly and even give a "squish" sound.   The soft area can be a few square inches or entire areas of a hull.

The typical catamaran hull consists of an outer later of gelcoat and an inside layer of fiberglass with a foam layer in the middle.  This foam layer is about 3/8" thick.  When you feel this soft area from the outside, the foam inside has either deteriorated and has separated from the inside or outside layers.   Some times it can even be wet.

There are a few ways how these soft spots can develop.  One way is to install access ports without sealing the raw edge of the hole with epoxy or silicon before the port is installed.  Water in the hull vaporizes and penetrates the foam from the inside.  Usually ports are installed to alleviate the build up of moisture in the hulls, but if not done properly it accelerates the same problem you were trying to avoid.

There are reports that 1979 Hobie 16 boats were vulnerable to soft spots because of the inferior foam that was used that year.  I don't know if it is true or not, but I owned a 1979 Hobie 16 that had a soft spot problem in front of the forward pylons.  This boat also had access ports installed by the previous owner without sealed hole edges.

Ports or no ports, water left in the hull can evaporate and penetrate the inside layer of fiberglass and damage the foam layer.  You should silicon all leaks in your hulls, drain them after each sail, and remove the drain plugs prior to storage.  If you can garage or cover your boat and open the access ports it would be even better.

Another way that foam is broken down is to step on the top sides of the hull.  If you have to step on a hull, do so on the outside edge where it is stronger.  Or better yet, crawl on it so that your weight is more distributed.

Footnote: This catamaran repair article first appeared in On The Wire in December 1998 issue. It still works, and every year there are more beach catamarans that need help. If you have done this repair on your catamaran, please comment.


How to Epoxy the Hobie 16 Catamaran Frame For Better Performance.

Added by damonAdmin on Oct 13, 2003 - 08:08 PM
This article will explain the step-by-step method of epoxying the frame of a Hobie 16 together to achieve a stiff, well sailing boat.  The techniques will be very similar and can be applied to a Hobie 14.  This article does not pertain to other Hobies since they do not have the elevated 3 corner casting design.

Footnote: This article appeared in the October 1998 issue of "On The Wire" eZine, but there are even more used Hobie 16's now than then. Please add your comments if you have different ideas for this.


PVC Catamaran Sail Storage Tube

Added by damonAdmin on May 29, 2003 - 12:56 PM
Build your own Catamaran Storage Tube with these illustrated instructions. Thanks to Donny Pattullo for providing so much detail.

Build your own A Class catamaran!

Added by damonAdmin on Apr 23, 2003 - 12:26 AM

Ever thought about building your own catamaran? Here's an illustrated guide to one sailors project building a beautiful A-Class catamaran out of plywood. A big thank you to the builder, Chris Williams, for letting me share his work with the rest of the beachcat sailors.


Quick-Release System for Old-Style Hobie-18 Rudders!

Added by damonAdmin on Jan 15, 2003 - 01:41 AM
By: Keith Chapman

Hobie-18 rudder castings come in two flavors: Pre-1987 and 1987 on. They’re easy to tell apart, as the newer systems use a plastic cam to hold and release the upper casting, while the older systems use a metal one. Both are supposed to work the same way, with the rudder kicking up when an obstacle is encountered or when the skipper wishes to beach the boat. However, the pre-1987 Hobie-18 rudders have an annoying habit of not releasing or kicking up when you want them to. I’ve even busted a tiller arm or two yanking up on them to try to get a rudder to release. I always had to keep a tool with a long end that I could insert from behind the release cam in order to trip the mechanism whenever things would stick – not very convenient or even safe under some circumstances.

Footnote: While I recommend everyone upgrade their pre-87 Hobie 18's to the new system. This article shows the resourcefulness of beachcat sailors!


Upgrading Hobie 14, 16, 17, 18, and 21 tiller connectors.

Added by damonAdmin on Jan 03, 2003 - 04:57 PM

Many Hobie Cats have a rather crude tiller connector mechanism. By tiller connector, we are referring to the point between the rudder arm and the rudder crossbar. This article will illustrate the steps to retrofit other Hobie catamaran models with the advanced Hobie 20 (Miracle) style tiller connection.

The Hobie 20 sports an advanced tiller connection with features of easy disassembly, accurate turning, no binding, and reduced or eliminated slop. All other models, however, have a bolt with spacers, a spring, and a nylon lock nut. The same kit (part number 1953, $104) from Hobie will add these features to the 14, 16, 17, 18, and 21 cruiser.

Footnote: This article was originally published at Catsail.com in June of 1997 but is still great advice. I've edited it only for length. (ed)


Trailer and sail tube construction

Added by Jmhoying on Nov 08, 2002 - 11:01 AM
Jack Hoying brings us step by step illustrated instructions for building your own catamaran trailer and sail storage tube. The Beachcats mailing list always has lots of discussion about these expensive items, and the ongoing debate of cat box vs. storage tube is never ending. This is one sailors solution that he has agreed to share with us.

Installing Deck Ports

Added by Damon Linkous on Sep 12, 2002 - 12:35 PM
A step-by-step illustrated guide


By Bill Mattson


First published in "On The Wire" Ezine.




If you own a Hobie Cat, you may have noticed that if you take on any water, it is virtually impossible to get it out, given the location of the drain plugs. You can raise the bows, but unless you point them straight to the sky, you are going to have some water left in the boat when you are done. Deck ports will accomodate a far more effective and convenient way to remove water.




This month, we install them in a couple of Hobie 16s. If you are even thinking about doing this, or wonder why anyone would, read on. We cover each step in detail, and give you a good idea of what to expect along the way. Let’s face it: If you are going to take a saw to your boat, you want as much information as you can get before you start cutting. This article provides fully illustrated step-by-step procedures to help you do the job right...

Catamaran motor mount

Added by Jack Hoying on Jun 19, 2002 - 05:59 PM
I recently purchased a small outboard motor for my Prindle 18 catamaran and had to figure out how to mount it on my boat. I wanted something that was easily removable and was lightweight...

A Batten Tapering Guide.

Added by damonAdmin on Apr 16, 2002 - 03:12 PM
By Kim Miller. Wagga Wagga, Australia.
(First published in "On The Wire, 1996)

A catamaran is a highly efficient way of transforming sail power into
boat speed. Most Hobie sailors are quite satisfied with the power available
from their normal rig in even moderate winds. In heavy winds many sailors
find that power quite difficult to keep under control. However, there are
always those times when we try to find a bit more power and a bit more
speed. If you sail in light winds, or if you just like the speed of a catamaran,
then you are probably looking for another place to crank on a bit more
power. Your sail trim is the most obvious place to look.


Adding double trailer rollers

Added by Jmhoying on Apr 04, 2002 - 12:50 PM

Upgrading trailer rollers from single to double.

After switching from a H-16 to a P-18, I thought that since the 18 seemed to have more weight on the front single roller of my trailer, a second roller should be added. I made up a simple bracket that can be bolted in place of the single roller. I purchased an additional roller (in my case, 9") for each side and picked up the necessary metal at a local weld shop...





Plywood Cat Box

Added by nesdog on Mar 10, 2002 - 12:21 PM
Instructions for building a Plywood Catbox.








Note: If I can build this box, anyone can as I am a way better sailor than carpenter! This box needed to fit under a Prindle 18 on a trailer.








I started with two sheets of 1/2" 10' x 4' exterior grade plywood. I would have gotten 5/8" but it's not easy to find in 10' sheets as most of the yards sell 8' only. I had the yard cut one sheet down the middle to create two 10' x 24" halves. (so, the overall width of the box is 24")...




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