Prindle 16 jib - no zipper

I'm sure this might be more obvious once I start putting things together, but the manual talks about starting "the zipper around forestay wire." My jib has no zipper. The boat is a 1978 - I'm not sure if the jib was replaced at some point, or if the zipper configuration was an addition to newer boats? What's the difference in raising a jib without the zipper vs. raising one with a zipper?

-Matt
Hey Matt,
It’s possible they replaced the zipper with hanks, the zippers often corrode. Is there any means of attachment on the leading edge of the jib? Zipper is the way to go.
Looking closer there is a sail manufacturer's patch on the jib, so it's not the original jib. There's a wire inside the leading edge, with thimbles top and bottom, and that's it. I guess once I get the mast up maybe it will make sense - I haven't separated all of the rigging yet.



Edited by westmatt on Sep 25, 2022 - 10:14 AM.
The OEM jib has a wire reinforced luff that attaches at the bridle and to the halyard. Normally the halyard is tucked into the zippered luff and as the sail is raised the halyard ends up with the bitter-end hanging out the bottom. This is secured to the bridle at the same pin holding the bottom of the halyard and looped up to a grommet in the tack creating a 2:1 pull before being tied off.

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Tom
NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
Pennsylvania
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You should contact member pbegle. He has a number of catamarans near Big Bear Lake, CA and has advertised Prindle jibs and mains for sail in the BeachCats classified. He is really a great source for many parts and has been part of the forum forever. https://www.thebeachcats.…-mains26amp-3b-jibs.html

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Tom
NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
Pennsylvania
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Thanks!
-MF
So the difference would be that without the zippered channel, the forestay wire would be exposed and possibly provide more forward resistance? Based on what I've read, this would be similar to how the Hobie 16 jib is built?
OK, I figured it out. The jib halyard looks to be what's used on a Hobie 16, so it's a clone of that setup, apparently.
I have thoroughly confused myself. In the image (linked below), the loose end of the pigtail was attached at the mast tang with the rest of the rigging.

The smaller block is the halyard line and wire. No idea what the wire at the other end of the large block is - I should have measured it, but it's probably more than 10 feet long. Can anyone help me understand what I am looking at? Is that a forestay wire attached to the other side of the large block? I can't envision what the small block should be doing.

https://flic.kr/p/2nP6Ta6

-MF
The early P16s jib halyard was exactly like a Hobie 16, and rigs the same way. You must down haul the jib halyard tight so the wire in the luff will take over and replace the forestay.
Apologies, this should probably be in the technical forum, but in trying to refresh the rigging on this boat, what should I be buying for the jib? The boat has a cheek block at the base of the mast, just like the Hobie. Can I just get a jib halyard for a Hobie and I'm good?

-MF
Salty Dog has the jib halyard assembly, but it's just got the single block - was that the original configuration on the older Prindle 16s, and would it be preferable to add the second block as shown in the Hobie 16 manual? Sorry for the profusion of questions.

-MF
Disregard. I finally understand the differences between my boat and what's in the Prindle manual, and the Hobie-like rigging I've got. I appreciate the guidance.

-Matt
For future readers who may be in the same position: I bought a forestay, pigtail, and jib halyard & block for a Hobie 16. I had the wire in the jib luff replaced by North Sails. When the jib is raised, like the Hobie, it becomes the forestay, and supports the mast, with the forestay going slack. I put double chain plates at the bridle connection and use a piece of shock cord to pull the upper chainplate and forestay forward and down to hold tension on the forestay to keep it above the jib and out of the way.