I am ready to spray my prindle andd the marine shop wants me to try the interlux bright. It is a very bright marine paint. Has anyone tried it?

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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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Also I took my deck off one hull and reworked the inside using epoxy west system in areas. Mostly looking for cracks and found some in front of the forward beam using cloth and epoxy in a single sheet of woven glass.beefed up the bridle tangs by taken them off used a double piece of epoxy and glass about 10 x 30 inches so the tangs should not pull through under stress.used a 2 inch strip along the lips and epoxy that good. I have added about 3 pounds at this point. At last I would use poly resin along the deck and run a 2 inch Matt all the way around and sand. That will be done by tomorrow. Then I'll start the other hull and do the same. I am figuring about 5 pounds on each deck. I'll just try to lose 10 pounds but at least it will be stronger than before. Any thoughts or advice?

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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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Correction,interlux paint

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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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I was wrong about total weight about 6 pounds total

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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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When I glass my deck in I am planning to just glass the seam solid and sand . I think it will be stronger and I feel like I am done for good on the repair. I have studied all the pros and cons on this site and I really think I have done a good job going by the book.The glass work looks great no air. Took my time and honestly it looks professional.I appreciate everyone's help in the past.I take some pics tomorrow.

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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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We’d love to see some pictures, sounds like a big job

How do I post photos on a tablet?

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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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I've used both Interlux Brightside and the 2 part Perfection . They both applied easily with the roll and tip method. Brightside looked great but chipped easily over the next year of sailing (more from the bumping around from dock onto dolly ) . The Perfection was obviously more durable being 2 part polyurethane and also twice the price. I ended up sticking with the Perfection . Just be sure your sanding and prep work are well done since any imperfections will show with the high Gloss of these paints.

Can I spray the interlux. Thanks for the reply

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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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what color are you painting your cat?



Edited by MN3 on Feb 13, 2018 - 10:03 AM.

I am not sure but leaning toward the white with a slight blue tent. Or the charcole.I want to use the interlux bright and spray. Not sure if I am good enough to roll and tip. I want it to look good. Also I guess I will use the recommended primer.I still have a ways to go. I took all the decks off and what a job. I am going over everything with a fine comb. Found some stress cracks here and there. The well has small damage on both sides at the bottom where boards rubbed. Easy fix I believe using west epoxy and cloth. This is probably why most boats leak. Small leaks but.......I am going over all the lips around the top hull decks by sand cracks to the glass then i will use poly resin and tape cloth. Would rather use epoxy but if I go with gelcoat might be a problem.There is 2 areas on the port side where the trapeze man had his feet rushing in a little. I will epoxy the inner hull and build up on exterior using poly resin by westsystems.Taking ever thing off the hulls completely. Beams came off nice. One bolt was super tight but no problem. Lots of Work! Probably 70 hrs of prepping so I hope the paint is a successful. I tried to post photos on a tablet but I do not know how. Old school.

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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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ec, the prep makes the rest of the job work. Applying a good primer and being absolutely sure to sand that out should give you a very nice finish. I used Interluxe Perfection 2 years ago in Arctic White, and got a very bright reflective finish that has held up to the beach. It's a ton of work, but you will really enjoy the results.

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Tom
NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
Pennsylvania
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Following this.... I have an 18.2 that I am going to tackle a bottom job here in the next week or so. Have the west epoxy stuff to do it. Hope it does not take more than a weekend.

Does your boat have the longitudinal stress cracks on the top edges like most prindles 18.2/19 have? I hear they are just superficial and nothing to worry about. I would like to fix them but need a plan of action. My thoughts were to take a die grinder to clean them out and give a little room to see how deep they go, then just use some epoxy and filler then sand them. Though this could lead to yellowing of the epoxy over time. Thinking of painting the boat afterwards as well, but that is as far as I have gotten with the idea.

Jonathan
Mesa, AZ

Prindle 18-2

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Would rather use epoxy but if I go with gelcoat might be a problem

If you use west system, and are sure to remove the amile blush that forms (green scrubby pad and warn water, not a solvent), i have found (and most others) gel coating is not an issue - there are many youtube vids that discuss and test this

i highly recommend white paint to most, any other color will show any scratch like an etch-a-sketch

Quote

Following this.... I have an 18.2 that I am going to tackle a bottom job here in the next week or so. Have the west epoxy stuff to do it. Hope it does not take more than a weekend.

if you stay up for all 48 hours, you may get a 1/4 of the way done in 1 weekend :)
I am in day 10 of a bottom job
and currently in layer 10 or so of gelcoat
-
I still have a bunch of inter centerboard well work to do
(sure am glad i have a spare catamaran)

Quote

I would like to fix them but need a plan of action. My thoughts were to take a die grinder to clean them out and give a little room to see how deep they go, then just use some epoxy and filler then sand them. Though this could lead to yellowing of the epoxy over time.

You can't leave epoxy uncovered in the sun - it will fail
you need to paint/or gelcoat over it

To "Fix" stress cracks, you must remove material, add glass cloth and cover it
Needs to be stronger than it was originally or the cracks will reform

Yes a lot of long hours.on the cracks some go rather deep. I ground them all out took about 5 hrs. I will go back with resin aND polyester and cloth. I did one front hull already and finished it to see how it looked. After sanding with 80 grit came back with the west system filler and sanded it with a fine grit and looks good.I used4 inch tape 2 inches on the side and 2 inches on the deck. I went ahead and sanded the top grit like deck smooth because I had roughed that top deck up on that grit like fiberglass molding. It looks good now. Beefed the inside of that hull pretty good without adding much weight.By the way when I epoxy ed the deck on I filled the deck gap with ground glass using epoxy resin and sanded then added the 4 inch strips of poly resin cloth. I hope this works. To answer Jonathon question my cracks were all along the lips all the way around and 10 Percent were deep. It wasn't to bad of a job to do that took about 15 hrs and still grinding all the way in the grass.Yes white is the way to go for me. I like that blue white finish.some of you know my boat from Craigslist. One good thing the hulls have no soft spots and they are solid.The decks are solid too just the cracks.Thanks for all the advice and feel free to be critical of my work I am a rookie. You guys know your stuff and I will listen and learn from my mistakes.

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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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[quote=MN3]if you stay up for all 48 hours, you may get a 1/4 of the way done in 1 weekend :)
I am in day 10 of a bottom job
and currently in layer 10 or so of gelcoat
[quote]

I can't tell if you are joking or not. Your definition and mine of a bottom job seems drastically different. In a nutshell, I am talking sanding down to the layers on either side 2" wide, placing a 2" strip of glass the length of the wear area, then doing a final coat of the epoxy with mixed fibers on top. Sand, fair, and done.

Jonathan

Wasn't joking, I know it is many long hours.I will probably finish the first hull in about25 more hrs.I am going past the paint where I intend to reglass. I wanted to do one hull at a time. When I start the next hull it will probably take less time since I will get the hang of it excluding wasteful work. I will do the rudders and boards last.Johnston are you fiberglass ing the insides of Hulls?

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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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[quote=Jonathan][quote=MN3]if you stay up for all 48 hours, you may get a 1/4 of the way done in 1 weekend :)
I am in day 10 of a bottom job
and currently in layer 10 or so of gelcoat

Quote

I can't tell if you are joking or not. Your definition and mine of a bottom job seems drastically different. In a nutshell, I am talking sanding down to the layers on either side 2" wide, placing a 2" strip of glass the length of the wear area, then doing a final coat of the epoxy with mixed fibers on top. Sand, fair, and done.

Jonathan

I wasn't joking at all
i expect to put in at least a 100 hours in my bottom job

my bottom job is about 6" along the entire bottom of both hulls
I am basically just filling scratches, and adding layers of new gelcoat (had a very small area where i added epoxy where it was needed - that was the easiest part

the gelcoat i am using needs wax added for sanding, color tint to match, and in earlier rounds i am using fumed silica for thickness and mill fibers for strength - not to mention the mekp as a catalysis

I also spent some time building up the area around my centerboard well to better define where my gaskets go (some cats with centerboards use a slot tape as a gasket to keep water from rushing up the board and spewing out the opening)

i have gone through 3 quarts of gelcoat so far, prob need 1 more to finish

The process takes me a lot of time
from prep, to mix, to apply, to cure, to sand....

I wan't my bottom job to be as perfect as possible (shape, i don't care all that much about the tint being exact)

EC,

I am not laying fiberglass on the insides. I applaud you for popping the decks off for access inside. That scares me and I don't plan on popping them off.

MN3,

Yea sounds like a lot of prep time, especially with the gelcoat. When you get done should be a nice finished product.

Jonathan

I hope it's no more popping decks off again. But I highly recommend to do it if you had even minor repairs.Today I noticed another problem bad centerboards delaminated at bottom. Also it is stuck and will not slide out. The other one came out fine.anyone ever have this problem with the prindle18.2?
Mn3, does the prindle 18.2 have the gaskets around the centerboards. Mine doesn't have them. Looks like that would slow this boat down not having gaskets but what do I know. I did think about that studying that today,

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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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I mentioned mn3 about centerboards gasket but Jonathon is the guy with the 18.2. Mn3 might know as well.

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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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No gaskets on the P 18-2 nor 19

Mystere's and Tornado's use them - not sure about other boats

For the delimitation of centreboards , the west system epoxy is your best friend . I've blew mine wide open hitting rocks in the shallows . Sand them down a bit , apply a thickened mix of west system epoxy in stages (depending on the degree of damage ) . Build up to the rough shape and then sand it down . The epoxy is very easy to shape .Use some vises to compress boards when curing . I had no experience when I first tried and now am very capable .

Quote

For the delimitation of centreboards , the west system epoxy is your best friend . I've blew mine wide open hitting rocks in the shallows . Sand them down a bit , apply a thickened mix of west system epoxy in stages (depending on the degree of damage ) . Build up to the rough shape and then sand it down . The epoxy is very easy to shape .Use some vises to compress boards when curing . I had no experience when I first tried and now am very capable .

totally agree
the goodall guys have a great video showing the repair of boards
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9TyWSnAvI9A

trick i love is to use wax paper to flatten out the epoxy (or gelcoat) out as it kicks off.
if done right there is almost no shaping needed and minimal fairing

Great video.and thanking all for the advice and my question.

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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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Has anyone ever popped the deck on the middle Deck? One hull worked fine the other deck I am worried about. I am having problems getting the center board well separated. That we'll has damage where it attaches to the bottom of hull. I want to get in there to repair the well from the inside and outside also that centerboards is stuck in the well. The tear in the well is about 2 inches long. I know the previous owner had a leak. Note I got the deck separated from the Thule excepted I ant separate it from the well.This is a prindle 18.2 same structure as the prindle 19.Thanks

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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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Quote

Has anyone ever popped the deck on the middle Deck

I haven't but have seen a mystere with all the decks off





Edited by MN3 on Feb 17, 2018 - 10:03 AM.

Yep looks like my mess. Thank for the photo mn3. That well is tough to seperate.any thoughts?

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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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no thoughts sorry

Gosh this project has wore me out. Mn3 was correct and yes countless hours. I finally finished the top decks and have them sealed good. Sanding on the hulls now and correcting blemishes. I have already put 80 hours in the hulls. The rate I am going another 250 hrs. The last phase will be repairing the slightly damage rudders and centerboards. Super video about repairing and molding the boards by mn3. Thanks. I got the centerboard out of the 18.2 just jerk it good. I guess they are designed that way and seems to just lock in where the pic is snug at the very bottom.Wow we hat have I gotten into. I never dream this project would take so much time and money. I figured about 500.00 on epoxy and cloth and poly resin,sand paper acetone, mask tape and many other supplies.also will have to buy a new tarp. New lines,some fittings. Overhaul the trailer. I hope those nacra 5.5 sails work.I think I'll make the work. But I believe the boat will look ok when done. I am a perfectionist but the question is did I do it properly. Advice if you find a boat well taken care of and everything looks up to snuff the buy that boat. I will have a small fortune in mine when done.

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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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yea man, it seems working on boats is always much more work than expected
rewarding as hell when done correct (and frustrating as hell when it doesn't go well)

even small sail repairs (seem small to me) end up taking soooo much longer than expected due to having to remove things like leach, luff and or batten pockets.