I posted this on the Hobie forum but I thought some of you may have even more ideas. I have been enjoying upgrading and optimizing things on my trailer setup. I thought I would show a few things that I've come up with and maybe others can chime in with some of their mods as well.







All boxes are mounted on treated wood that is bolted to the frame with carriage bolts. I did that so that when I get down to florida, and have mast-up storage (God willing), I will be able to easily unscrew the coffin box and store it on the ground under my boat on the beach. I admit, having the tube and the coffin box is probably too much storage but it will give me more storage for moving to florida and then when I get down there I'll just unscrew it and keep it on the beach.

The black box is very helpful for storing life jackets, harnesses, blocks, extra parts, etc. It helps to keep things organized.







This is mostly for traveling. It will help keep my mpg down versus having the bike on the yakima rack on the roof. I ordered the bike fork mount on the internet for $20 shipped and then just used velcro straps to keep the spare tire down. It fits perfectly in the "groove" made by the mast crutch which should help keep it from moving.

I also have my kayak stored under the boat on the trailer for transporting it but I don't have any pictures.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
I'm in the process of building custom hull cradles for the trailer. I'll post pictures and maybe a write-up when I'm finished.

Here is a quick preview:



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Installed the new 12" tires over easter weekend. They are an upgrade from the 8" tires. They should roll over pot-holes better and also spin the hub less.

Fenders were too low so I made some quick brackets to raise them. Now the fenders are kind of small for the bigger tires but I'll make do.




12" tire on the right, 8" on left


-------------------------------------------------------------------------

And then my most recent idea. What about mounting one of these onto the trailer frame to store keys while you're out sailing?:



Master Lock Wall Mount on Amazon

Now you don't have to worry about losing your keys while you're out sailing!

--
-Zach
--

Lookin good Zach! In my mind you can never have too much storage. The key box is a great idea, but how 'bout one step further? I used to have an old Chevy C-10 truck with an old army-surplus strong-box bolted to the bed up against one side, in between the fender and the cab wall. It was perfect for holding my buddies high-dollar camera, phones, wallets, gf purse, keys. It locked with a hasp just like on the old style footlockers, and I used a good combo lock to secure it. We used to worry about sailing away with everyone at the boatramp knowing we'd be gone and our stuff might be easy pickens, but that changed with the strong-box. Once the lid dropped on that thing, it wasn't opening or coming off my truck without some major effort. That was years ago at a po-boy boat ramp. Now I sail from a beach called 10-mile, literally 10 miles from the rif-raf, and everyone watches out for everyone. I don't even lock my truck doors

--
Repairable P18
--

Hey Zach,
Strong work with the trailer mods.
The best trailer mod I have to offer is the hinged rear mast support. The mast never rests on the crossbar, so that weight is never on the hulls during trailering or storage. You could even make it extendable to assist with raising and lowering the mast.

--
Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
--

What's the material that you're using/baking for hull cradles?

klozhald

Hey Zach,
Strong work with the trailer mods.
The best trailer mod I have to offer is the hinged rear mast support. The mast never rests on the crossbar, so that weight is never on the hulls during trailering or storage. You could even make it extendable to assist with raising and lowering the mast.

Would you mind taking pictures and explaining how you did it? I would be interested and I'm sure others would be too.

Headhunter

What's the material that you're using/baking for hull cradles?

Its just a large (~12") PVC pipe that we cut in thirds. My plan is to create something like my CAD drawing below. I am going to shape a rough mold of the bottom mount out of foam, fiberglass over that, then drill the hole for the pin. Then I'll sand it smooth, paint with appliance spray paint, and cover the top with marine carpet.


--
-Zach
--

I have a mold just like the pic used to make H-16 fiberglass cradles...check them out at my website (sailboxes.com)

--
Kenny Boudreaux
2010 C2 F18 USA 323
Goodall Design "Southern Area Rep"
Owner of Sailboxes.com
--

KennyB

I have a mold just like the pic used to make H-16 fiberglass cradles...check them out at my website (sailboxes.com)

I admit, I am modeling my cradles after yours. I'm sure yours are much stronger and cleaner but I'm trying to save money.

--
-Zach
--

I have some 12' pvc pipe.. How hot do you set the oven?? Does the material just sag to the shape or do you press it. How much does the divorce cost after the wife discovers the work in her oven? Thx Hal

--
Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness

I Need a A Cat Please
--

I set the oven at about 200ish for the first 30 minutes but bumped it up to 225 later on. It takes over an hour with thick pvc like I have. You want the pvc to become very malleable. I found that it becomes so malleable that I could fold it flat like rubber.

Once the pvc is ready, you have to work quickly. It helps to plan ahead and have everything ready. It helps to have a partner. Take the pvc out of the oven and run it to the boat. From there, place the carpet inside the pvc. Next, use 3 ratchet straps to pull it up against the boat's hull. Tighten so that it is tight but not so much that you'll break the hull. Once you have the cradle positioned as you like it, throw a big bucket of water on the cradle and hull to cool it quickly. Loosen the ratchet straps and throw the cradle in another bucket of cool water. The pvc holds heat very well but after the first douse, it should hold its form.

As for the divorce, I would imagine that the cost of buying cradles from sailboxes.com would be much less. I did most of this work in my apartment that was given to me for my internship this summer. We were both college students so the most we ever cooked was a frozen pizza and we weren't too concerned about the possible carcinogens in the pvc.

Here are a few quick pictures of one of my cradles:





I plan to put cradles on all 4 corners of my Hobie 16. If the carpet proves to have too much friction to easily pull the boat off the trailer, I'll spray it with some Liquid Rollers



Edited by PurdueZach on Apr 17, 2012 - 10:11 AM.

--
-Zach
--

It is also possible to soften PVC in boiling water. Think big pot (or metal 5 gallon bucket) on your BBQ grill to avoid divorce... Also speed is less critical as you can carry the part in the hot water to the boat keeping the part fully heated.

Those are beautiful cradles! I was considering making some out of fiberglass, but I like the idea of the big PVC pipe. (Now I just need to find some big PVC pipe!)

Hey, speaking of curved things that hold other things, I'm also interested in the hinged mast support Bob mentioned. I had one of those on my Prindle 16. I wasn't all that keen on the hinge, though, so I'm curious to see what Bob did.

But the part I'm stumped on is the part that actually supports the mast. The guy who build the trailer for my P-Cat never finished it. The upright at the front of the trailer is stout enough to hold up my Jeep. But there's no cradle for the mast. I'm fishing around for ideas of what to put up there.

The hull cradles on my trailer are made from wood. I could go this route with the mast, but it's not my favorite. (I need to replace parts of the hull cradles because they're rotting.) I was considering making a mast cradle out of fiberglass, and just glassing in mounting lugs on the bottom so I could bolt it to the upright. If I can find some large PVC pipe, I might go that route instead. I think my Prindle trailer just had a steel strap bent to shape and bolted on. Any other pointers for how I could get this done?

Thanks,

Tom

--
Tom Benedict
Island of Hawaii
P-Cat 18 / Sail# 361 / HA 7633 H / "Smilodon"
--

@Tom

My mast support in the front is a bow stop from a trailer bolted to 2x3 box tube and one of the old style not made anymore round plastic mast holders (mast mate maybe ?). I removed it since it was all busted up and added a standard horn cleat on one side. I have a line running from one side of the bow stop through a hole in the "v" tied off with a stopper knot over the mast and down to the cleat.

Something like this one but with metal plates that extend past the top by about 2 inches.
http://www.etrailer.com/B…ton-Lainson/DL21732.html

The rear of my mast support is made up with the functional parts from my mast buddy from the front. The previous owner added a 2 foot length of pipe bolted to the rear cross member of the trailer. There is a 3.5 foot length of pipe that goes inside the larger pipe and was drilled so that it can be thru bolted while traveling.

I don't have much experience with this set up but I like that the pipe on the back will prevent the car from rolling off should a strap ever let go, plus it keeps the mast off the tramp while in travel.

I'd imagine you could rig up something similar for a few bucks. Let me know if you need pics.

--
Bob Miller
1983 P16 Sail # 7312
"Miller Time" A work in progress; out of the water for 16 years
Barnegat Bay NJ
Beach Cat Lesson #1 - A free cat isn't
Find more Prindles on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/173120656090532/
--

bobcatnj

The rear of my mast support is made up with the functional parts from my mast buddy from the front. The previous owner added a 2 foot length of pipe bolted to the rear cross member of the trailer. There is a 3.5 foot length of pipe that goes inside the larger pipe and was drilled so that it can be thru bolted while traveling.

I don't have much experience with this set up but I like that the pipe on the back will prevent the car from rolling off should a strap ever let go, plus it keeps the mast off the tramp while in travel.

I'd imagine you could rig up something similar for a few bucks. Let me know if you need pics.

This setup seems pretty simple except I don't know how I would secure it to the rear cross member. I can't weld and don't have anyone near by that could weld for me. I'm wondering if something with bolts could be done.

--
-Zach
--

I just got back from the Indiana BMV and I finally have the trailer titled and registered! It only took me 9 months to do it. It got complicated because I bought the boat in Georgia, took it to Florida, then moved back to Indiana. The BMV didn't like this

--
-Zach
--

Hey Zach...I bought my Hobie Tiger from Melborne, FL, the guys name was Jim Rathmann Jr., His dad won the Indy 500 in 1960, and I guess his fame allowed him to open the Chevrolet dealership there...such a small world sometimes ;p . I've got 2 tiller extensions, one alum and one fiberglass...make me agood offer and you pay actual shipping.

--
Kenny Boudreaux
2010 C2 F18 USA 323
Goodall Design "Southern Area Rep"
Owner of Sailboxes.com
--

Zach,

my rear crossmember has 2 holes already centered in it, the guy added the pipe and drilled 2 holes to match. He used really long bolts to secure it. I guess you could also use U boles and a backer

--
Bob Miller
1983 P16 Sail # 7312
"Miller Time" A work in progress; out of the water for 16 years
Barnegat Bay NJ
Beach Cat Lesson #1 - A free cat isn't
Find more Prindles on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/173120656090532/
--

Hy Guys.. Back to the hull supports for a bit. I know all you all love to talk like OLDE BOYS but. Is there a concern about getting the cradles too form fitting for the hulls. Seems to me that the glass on the sides of the hull are not made to support the weight of the boat.. Just the pressure from the water.. ( I used a friends HObie beach wheels and noticed a problem when they were too narrow for my 5.2N. The hulls did deflect..)I thought that the advantage of cradles was to increase the area of contact on the keels, not the whole hull. Seems like making the cradles longer to distribute the weight would be better.. Also, seems like loading would be tough with contact on too much of the sides of the hulls. I am making some cradles out of the same stuff. I want to bend the sides to guide the hulls in but not to touch and cause drag when loading and to center the hulls in case of (God forbid) the tie downs were loose and the hulls were moving a bit from side to side.
Allready checked with the ceo and it is OK to use the oven to 250 degrees for short periods of time as lond as we are not having Pizza. can't risk that..

--
Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness

I Need a A Cat Please
--

Some cradle are made for specific boat hulls but other are more generic and usually bigger. Ill have to to take a pic of what I rigged on my beach wheels they work good for any type of cat hull.

--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
--

12" or 300mm pipe sections cut in half fit 5.2 hulls perfectly, without the need for any heating or bending

i used angle cut wooden blocks to hold the pipe sections, with counter sunk screws coming down from the pipe

to spread load for the 5.2 use longer pipe sections for the front cradles as that's where 80% of the weight is

the back cradles carry hardly any weight

I went with popeyez7's suggestion in this thread. I liked the idea of spreading the weight out over a much larger area.
After doing it I really like it!!! So simple too. Thanks popeyez7.
Got a picture:


http://www.thebeachcats.com/forums/viewtopic/topic/13034



Edited by lonbordin on Apr 18, 2012 - 07:52 PM.

--
LIVE LIFE... Dave Wilcox
Trac 18
Bloomington, IN
--

halliske

Seems to me that the glass on the sides of the hull are not made to support the weight of the boat.. Just the pressure from the water..

This is true, and on newer hulls especially. The key here is a custom fit- not just to the hulls, but to the place where boat and trailer meet. If the support fits the hull snugly and is lined up perfectly on the trailer crossbar wiithout any side-slip, you have a great situation. But if the form-fitted support can slide inches sideways in the wind while you are trailering, the hulls can twist in the snug cradle and be damaged. Every boat/trailer/owner is a little different in terms of where the crossbars contact the keels while trailering, so custom is a necessity in a lot of cases.

A local cat sailor just laid up his own fiberglass cradles by using his upside down hulls as the template, padded the surface with outdoor carpeting and did not go very high up the sides- maybe 5 or 6 vertical inches. Even if the strap loosens a little while trailering (like in the rain), his hulls will stay put.

So your point about making the "V" in the cradles wider as they move up is a smart thought. Give the hulls a little wiggle room, but not enough to allow them to shift sideways.

halliske

...advantage of cradles was to increase the area of contact on the keels

Accurate. Longer is better than higher. In my thought the best cradles would be an inverted T when you looked at them from the side. Visualize a long (say 16") bottom under the hulls with a tapering side support narrowing to a 3" wide tip.

--
Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
--

I'll probably end up with something like that for my H17 but it will just across the beams of me P18. An 8 ft sec of 2x6 pressure treated lumbar then I'm going to get some 2x4 pressure treated and rip an angle cut down one edge on 2 boards and screw the angled edge to the flat side of the 2x6 all along it creating a kind of bowl.



--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
--

After everyone's comments, I am considering changing my design. I am thinking about just using the 1/3rd of the PVC pipe, uncooked. I would still fiberglass the bottom mount on because I think it will look awesome. Here is a quick CAD drawing of it.



--
-Zach
--

Zach. Your plan is based on attaching the cradles to the trailer frame.. I am working on a design that would allow mounting the cradles on the shaft that the rollers were on by using a small tube attached to the Cradles.. Gives movement in the aft mounting to pivit (spell??) and accept the hulls when loading. With a bit of clearance in the length, it lets the cradles slide a bit to accept the hulls and there is no re-drilling of the mounts, just pull the rollers and slip in the cradles.. . Will do a pix thing soon .. IM if you want some pix soon. What kind of covers ar you doing?? Cheers Hal

--
Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness

I Need a A Cat Please
--

halliske

Zach. Your plan is based on attaching the cradles to the trailer frame.. I am working on a design that would allow mounting the cradles on the shaft that the rollers were on by using a small tube attached to the Cradles.. Gives movement in the aft mounting to pivit (spell??) and accept the hulls when loading. With a bit of clearance in the length, it lets the cradles slide a bit to accept the hulls and there is no re-drilling of the mounts, just pull the rollers and slip in the cradles.. . Will do a pix thing soon .. IM if you want some pix soon. What kind of covers ar you doing?? Cheers Hal

No, that's actually my plan too. The hole in the bottom of the mount is for the roller shaft. You probably can't tell, but the whole thing is offset an inch back so that the cradle will tilt backward when the boat isn't on. This makes sliding the boat onto the cradles easier because they should already be oriented correctly.

Another idea that I had was to put a spring on the roller shaft on each side of the cradle to allow it to move slightly to side to side but keep it in the same general location. But now that I've heard from the people that posted earlier, I'm afraid that allowing the cradle to slide side to side may put unneeded pressure on the hull sides.

--
-Zach
--

Actually.. I think that a bit of side to side is good.. No pressure on the hull walls but all on the bottom where it is designed to be. These hulls were designed to take pressure and wear on the keel. My H17 has cracks in the side of the hull from too much pressure from the tie-downs.. let the hulls find their own good spot during loading. Aft.. tilt downward to assist in getting the boat moving forward on the trailer.. Make the fore cradles less tippy but still have a bit of side to side to line up !! Let the tie down hold the boat. Not too unlike what the rollers have done for years.. The center of the hulls often times did not sit in the exact center of the rollers. With the new style boats,(a bit wimpy) support the keel, unlike the old time undestructable hobies which were so solid. Will post my design soon.. Hal

--
Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness

I Need a A Cat Please
--

The best trailer mod I have made so far is a 26 gallon fresh water wash down tank with about 30 foot of water hose, and a pump. I'll get a picture ASAP. The new trailer I have in my head is awesome.

Ernie

--
Ernie Kamp
http://www.youtube.com/user/TopSpin80#g/u
Richmond / Livingston / Galveston / Kemah / Texas City, Texas
Supercat 19 and Blade F16 "Nauti Habit", 2 Sunfish
--

D

TopSpin80

The best trailer mod I have made so far is a 26 gallon fresh water wash down tank with about 30 foot of water hose, and a pump. I'll get a picture ASAP. The new trailer I have in my head is awesome.

Ernie

Cool idea. I'd like to see it. I assume this is to rinse uour boat after each sail. Do you get enough flow to really rinse it?

--
-Zach
--

TopSpin80

The best trailer mod I have made so far is a 26 gallon fresh water wash down tank with about 30 foot of water hose, and a pump.

This is a great idea! Locally we have a problem with the Invasive Quagga Mussels and are required to wash the hulls inside and out after sailing in a lake with known infestations. Have to use a vinegar solution. Looking forward to seeing your mod and what kind of pump you are using.

208 pounds of water... Did you balance this tank over the axle, or add it to the tongue weight?

--
Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
--

Quote

This is a great idea! Locally we have a problem with the Invasive Quagga Mussels and are required to wash the hulls inside and out after sailing in a lake with known infestations. Have to use a vinegar solution.

We are required to have a decontamination done by someone at the ramp with VERY hot water in the lakes that are known to be infested. All others have to fill out a form or take on online course to get an annual pass that says that you have completely dried out all parts of your boat and other stuff for a sufficient period to desiccate any possible travelers. The length depends on the time of years.

None of the lakes I go to so far are known to be infested but there are 3 in the state. i just take the online course every year and get the annual pass. I usually have more than enough time for everything to dry out good if I am diligent about getting the water out of the hulls.

--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
--

Just a suggestion for others, I just bought a spare hub for emergencies. My hub only costs $30 at harbor freight and is pretty easy to change on the side of the road if the hub fails. I figure if/when a hub fails, I will be 100 miles or more from a place to buy a new hub.

I have brand new hubs on there now but for $30, its good insurance.

I'm an Eagle Scout so I want to be 100% prepared for my 1000+ mile trip to Florida next month.

--
-Zach
--

Zach,
Is this you????
http://tippecanoe.craigsl….org/boa/2959058939.html

BTW GO Boilermakers! I'm a former Indiana boy, living a little further north now, gotta lot of friends that went to school down there. I ended up at ball state, finishing up my engineering degree at Grand Valley State now, even though I've been a project engineer for almost 7 years, haha.

--
Cesar (Cez) S.
Hobie 16 (had a few)
Nacra 5.2 "Hull Yeah"
Vectorworks XJ - A class (not named yet)
West Michigan (Grand Rapids/Holland Area)
--

That'd be me. I've had good luck finding boats and parts from that ad. Yes, Boiler Up! I'm about to finish my Junior year in electrical engineering.



Edited by PurdueZach on Apr 21, 2012 - 09:37 AM.

--
-Zach
--

I redid a trailer over the winter too; it is lots of work. The box came from the donated trailer but needed work. The tube came with the boat (Nacra) trailer and needs work (someone painted it, Really?). The spin pole is nestled in the middle. The mast cradle is far enough forward to allow the spinaker pole to stay on while on the trailer. I 'dry sail' the boat so all I have to do is remove the bag and kite and leave the pole on the trailer.

Anyhow, I had the trailer sand blasted (it needed it bad), painted (roller) with primer and then paint (roller again), built the deck, reinstalled cradles, added new wiring/lights, a tongue wheel (used) and it is good to go. I find having a tube and box is really nice. The box holds all the stuff, dagger boards rudder etc and the tube protects the sails so no chafing.



My 18 trailer which I built in the early 90s is very similar but is a stacker (duh you can see the pic). It also has an older car topper on the front for jackets, harness, cooler etc. The thing I like is going to the lake with food and beer and all the sailing stuff is already there, makes it impossible to forget stuff (almost) I am fortunate to be able to stack the boats for the winter in a barn. The below pic is just after coming out of the barn and getting ready to put the nacra on the redone trailer.



If I were to do it again, I would never ever do a painted trailer again. The one I built is Hot dipped Galvanized and looks just as good today as it did when I built it. The redone trailer is the same age and was it terrible shape. Sorry if I am hijacking the topic.

--
Lake Perry KS
H-18
N-5.5 UNI +spin
--

I'd love to some up close pics of how your double stack is setup. I really need that on mine soon.

--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
--

RicardOben

Sorry if I am hijacking the topic.

You're not threadjacking at all. I meant for this to be more of a show and tell rather than for me to show what I have done. I'm looking for ideas to make mine better all the time. I'm leaving for Florida in exactly 3 weeks and I'm oddly excited for the 1100 mile journey with the trailer. Now the only problem is that I have 2 free boats in the works (to be picked up next week) that I need to find a way to break them down and bring with me. If nothing else, I'll keep the good parts and give away anything that friends in Florida may need.

Quarath

I'd love to some up close pics of how your double stack is setup. I really need that on mine soon.

Word

--
-Zach
--

The Y frame of the trailer is not bent it is side welded to the long frame on each side. This leaves the ends open and allow the racks to slide in. There are holes in the racks and on the trailer for 1/2 inch hitch pins or bolts. The rack sits on the bottom of the tubing and bolts hold them, I never snug them to avoid crushing the tube, I use nylocs and they do the job. I can get pix of the racks in the am, if you click on the pic above it gets bigger and you can see the idea. What you can not see is the mast cradle has two mast racks. The Hobie 18 and trailer are already at the dry sail area so I will not get pix of that for a couple of weeks.

The down side is the trailer is heavier as all the tubing is thicker and stronger and I had to upgrade the axle and tires. All this is fine when you start from scratch but not so good when starting with a thin wall trailer with a light duty axle and light duty tires. I am running Trailer wheels and multi ply trailer tires in 13 inch. The tongue is longer, the cradles and rollers are further apart to accomodate the racks. The whole thing was built twice (more like 3 times), more holes drilled for light wiring, the axle is on a movable frame so I can get the tongue weight right, the main tongue is removeable so if it gets bent it can un bolt, the list of custom stuff goes on and on. I would not modify the new trailer to be a stack it is just not strong enough to start with. It was enough work that I did two and decided not to do any more than that. Even doing two I spent a grand on parts before galvanizing and that was in the late 80s (crap I am old) HTH, Ricardo.

--
Lake Perry KS
H-18
N-5.5 UNI +spin
--