Nacra doesn't make beam end caps anymore. I have a Nacra 5.2 and need to make something work, Any ideas?

--
Nacra 5.2
--

murry's used to carry em'

Not any more. I just broke one myself and they are hard to come by used. You may be able to modify a prindle end cap to fit if the beams are the same diameter. Might be a good project to get a machinist to do? If anyone wants to get a batch made out of aluminum I would be willing to kick in. Or if anyone knows of a supply...

The Nacra dealer in Aus makes boats they may have some?



edited by: Wolfman, Jun 03, 2010 - 12:34 PM

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

Murray is out and they are the ones that told me. I am wondering about wood. Either turn them ona lathe or use a 4 inch hole saw out of marine plywood.

--
Nacra 5.2
--

Wood would work, or even UHMW plastic if you have a lathe a router and the time. It might be an idea to check with the Brisbane Cat Center in Australia. They still manufacture boats so they may have a stock or manufacturer for those.

D.

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

when i got mine it had no caps

i wanted to get some

but i find the hole in the beam 1 of the few places when i can grab the boat to lift it, so they wont be getting covered

Prindle beams are tear drop shape, nacra beams are round.

Wolfman

Not any more. I just broke one myself and they are hard to come by used. You may be able to modify a prindle end cap to fit if the beams are the same diameter. Might be a good project to get a machinist to do? If anyone wants to get a batch made out of aluminum I would be willing to kick in. Or if anyone knows of a supply...

The Nacra dealer in Aus makes boats they may have some?edited by: Wolfman, Jun 03, 2010 - 12:34 PM

Super Cat beams are round and they have alum end caps, but I am not sure they are the same size as nacras. Maybe worth finding out.

I just redid my beam straps, and went over the 16-18 lb-ft of recommended torque by a bit, and it closed the slot in my front beam on both sides, so the totally rigged home made caps I had for the front no longer fit.

I think I'm going to try to make some out of west epoxy fairing compound. I wouldn't worry about it except that I cut my feet once every couple weeks on the rear beams.

--
Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
--

My 06 Murray's catalog has a nacra crossbar end cap Part # 56-3503. I did a search of the online catalog.... not there any more.

I was just looking on youtube at how to make carbon fiber parts. mmm carbon fiber. End caps would be a good primer for foam and carbon dagger boards and rudders. Just have to figure out how to make a mold now...

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

Guys, here's what I did with my 5.0....(5.0, 5.2, 6.0...all crossbeams are the same Dia.) go to your box lumber store, get a schedule 40 end cap for a 3" PVC pipe cut the lip off so the rounded end fits flush over the end of the crossbeam. Usually there is a line to follow where they moulded it. Next, take a 3" schedule 40 PVC pipe, cut 3/4" off for the new lip inside the crossbeam. Epoxy it to the cap and for added security I used thin screws of appropriate length. Make sure you cut a gap in the pipe to fit the tramp slot. What's cool is the PVC matches the color of the hulls, they're rounded and cost just a few bucks plus they look better than the black ones. Wish I had a picture but the boat is on Hobie Beach 60mi. from here. Maybe this weekend.



edited by: nacraman57, Jun 03, 2010 - 09:29 PM

That sounds like an easier solution! Thanks Nacraman!

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

My beams are 4 inch diameter and 3 7/8 inside diameter. I am having aluminum ones made (free). I will see how that goes. The pvc sounds good but his beams are not the same size as mine.

--
Nacra 5.2
--

If the person making them wants to charge for them and a bit of business let me know. Aluminum ones would look badass and last forever!

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

I will let you know how they come out. It is experimental at this stage.

--
Nacra 5.2
--

How the heck did the censor on the site let me get away with badass? :)

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

I picked up 3 used ones, & made the fourth out of a scrap of double thickness 3/4" plywood. I had some leftover epoxy from repairing my Invitation after some kids new to sailing ran out of water & ideas all at the same time. I mixed up a small amount, using only 1/2 the required hardener, & painted it onto all surfaces of the plywood. Due the reduced hardener, it took several hours to set up, but this allowed the epoxy to absorb into the wood grain. You have to keep turning the wood so as not to get "runs". The next day I applied a second thin coat, mixed at the recommended specs.
This worked very well so far. After the build, I weighed the plug on a scaled used for measuring powder charges,(I used to do a lot of shooting & reload my own rounds)accurate to tenths of a grain. I then let the plug soak in a bucket of water for 10 days, & weighed it again. The difference was not measurable within the scales margin of error, so it is water tight, for now. I forgot to paint the damn thing black, so it sort of stands out.
I also have some 5" x 3/4" strips of white HDPE. I may try turning some out of this material. It also floats, so you have a chance of recovery if you break a trap bungee & drop one in the drink.
The aluminum ones sound cool. When I saw the price at Murrays, $30, I decided that was way to much for a couple of pieces of plastic, & started scheming.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Cool, and the HDPE is less abrasive on the bungee. BTW, the end caps should be secured with a small SS screw into the beam.

--
Philip
--

Make sure you have the end caps in place befor torquing the straps down. If you don't, there is a very good chance you will take the beams out of round (they will collapse) at 16 to 18 fpds and the end beam caps will not fit, even new ones.

Kevin-

kbugel

Make sure you have the end caps in place befor torquing the straps down. If you don't, there is a very good chance you will take the beams out of round (they will collapse) at 16 to 18 fpds and the end beam caps will not fit, even new ones.

Kevin-

/second

I took mine to 18-19, as they were still easy to turn (i know, 18 lb-ft is 18 lb-ft, but they weren't trying to bind or anything--the anti seize was doing great) and my rear beams held their shape fine, but the front ones totally collapsed on the track. God help me if I ever need to get the tramp back off. If I'd thought to make the caps ahead of time I certainly would have done so.



--
Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
--

I changed out my beams with a nice used set this year (purchased through thebeachcats.com; thanks for the site Damon) after taking them to 18lb-ft two years ago. manual says to make sure the end caps are in place; now I know why. Lessons learned

Kevin-

How do they look?

We might be able to make them. I would not suggest wood though it will sure work. Fiberglass is a preferable option. Aluminum would be possible, even anodized, there are CNC machinists I have connections to. In the latter case, a batch of a certain number will be necessary, I'd say at least 40 units to make it worthwhile.

Best would be a technical drawing, but a few photos will do for now.

Kbugel, yeah that little gem about NOT tightening straps until caps are in is buried in the assembly manual. I read it several times on the way to Hongkong last week, & picked up a few of those tidbits. I had initially thought the low torque rating was due the brass/bronze(?)fitting in the hull, but the manual does make reference to collapsing the track in the beam.

MUUMP, thanks for the heads up on the bungee abrasion, I hadn't considered that. The holes in the caps look a bit rough around the edges, I'll try to smooth them out a bit, possibly line the hole with epoxy, or a small ferrule. You really can't cover a piece of the bungee, as experimentation showed that it moves to much. I did see where the caps (they were used) had a small screw to retain them, & I replaced that as I don't want to loose the damn things, they are getting hard to replace.
I think Eric goes without, as he likes the handholds, but I can see some newbies,(myself included) slicing open water softened appendages on the exposed beam edges.



edited by: Edchris177, Jun 06, 2010 - 08:49 PM

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

I need an endcap (4") and I found them for $15 ea. kind of expensive but less than murrays and better than cobbling it up. They are Identical externally to the nacra 5.2 rearbeam caps. There are quite a few available but I would need to purchase more than just one or two they are sold in a package of 25. If anyone wants to go in with me I will purchase and then distribute them. Thanks.

I'm open to going in for a set of spares (4 for my boat).

For the cost though I would certainly rather look into something more sturdy like a machined aluminum replacement. The reason the end caps are so scarce is the darn things pop off or shatter quite often (in my case they probably get brittle with sun and freeze/thaw).

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

I will jump in for 5


--
Nacra 5.2
--

Here's the pics of my homemade endcaps. WhenI picked up yhis boat, no endcaps came with it. When I saw the prices for new ones I got sticker shock and made my own. Refer to my previous post for instructions.

nacraman57 your image is broken. how do i see your previous posts?

nacraman57

Here's the pics of my homemade endcaps. WhenI picked up yhis boat, no endcaps came with it. When I saw the prices for new ones I got sticker shock and made my own. Refer to my previous post for instructions.http://www.thebeachcats.com/modules/UserPictures/data/0-1278193121_26236.jpg.thumb.jpg[/img]edited by: nacraman57, Jul 04, 2010 - 11:08 AM

FYI, I just finally made end caps for my 5-2. I used 3" ABS caps like what Nacraman suggested. They came out great!!! This site rocks!!!

Great thread guys! This is why this site rocks. I too need a set of end caps. Looks like Nacraman 57 has the solution. Thanks Nacraman57!

Interesting Rob, I totally stripped the threads on one of my straps a few years ago and was told 10-12 lbs torque max.18-20 was a no no. Its hard to imagine putting enough force on those to deform the beam and not stripping the plate.!

If you need the name and number of my anti-seize, just ask, but use at your own risk. =)



edited by: yurdle, Sep 10, 2010 - 09:42 PM

--
Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
--

Overtightening alone didn't cause the hull to crack there, although it certainly contributed.

"The Sea Was Angry That Day, My Friends, like an Old Man Trying to send Back Soup in a Deli."



--
Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
--

Rob, Nacra may have missed a layer of laminate or something. Looks like they did on mine. Below my rear beam there was no laminate joining the beam bulkhead to the hull. The bolt started to rip through on my boat after some short steep waves hit the rear beam directly. I added some reinforcement and she's been holding up just fine now. You may want to check your boat too.



edited by: dennisMe, Sep 11, 2010 - 10:40 AM

Larry, if you look closely at the cross section of the beam you can see why they deform the channel so easily.
A) the beam is aluminum, & fairly thin stock-it bends with little force.
B) the geometry contributes to the problem. Look at Yurdles photo above. We all know that the easiest way to bend a strap is to place an object in the middle, then force both ends down. The beams channel has to be positioned in the worst place in order to properly orientate the tramps bolt rope. The resulting force, when the beam straps are tightened pushes nearly directly down on the channel. The only material to resist the crushing effect is the thin wall of the channel, & of the main beam itself. Look again at the beam end & you see that the force is being applied directly across both he channel & beam, essentially bending 2 thin strips of aluminum over a fulcrum. If the channel were rotated 90* it would withstand a much greater force, but you would have a hard time staying on a vertical tramp.
The engineers decided to use a low torque setting to avoid deforming the channel.
Yurdle, what is the green line through the beam? Nice clean job you did with the inserts as fairleads.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Green line is a barberhauler. It's a very clean way to install one on these nacras. Works great.

--
Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
--

Well, if NACRA/Performance Catamaran/NACRA - US is longer offering these I wonder if they're going to stop making/offering the other NACRA specific parts?

Considering the factory is no longer in Santa Ana, CA, one has to look at this?










edited by: JohnES, Sep 12, 2010 - 09:02 AM

--
John Schwartz
Ventura, CA
--

JohnES, you're saying that NACRA is no longer in Santa Ana??? Where'd they go? Not that it matters...I too share your concern that in the rush to build the next generation Infusion, or Capricorn, or Tiger, us "lowbrow" types are being forgotten. Anyway, this thread is supposed to concern itself with endcaps. And I say, if NACRA can't supply us with what we need, good old "redneck" engineering will! Hope the picture comes out right.

many countries require manufacturers to supply parts for up to 10years after model production stops....

i know this forum is one year old, but i was wondering where "nik1cod2" was getting those endcaps?
did anyone take him up on his offer and get some too?

i need some!!!

--
Aquacat 12 (sold)...'87 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'03 Nacra Inter18 (sold)
Venture 15 (sold)....'89 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'91 Nacra 5.8NA (sold)
'99 Nacra Inter20 (sold)
--

I've got some. I'm trying to figure out what to do with my 5.5 and 5.2s. I know some of it will get parted out, and all the parts are a pain to find. I'll make some ads soon.

Rob

--
Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
--

i have found that two dealers in australia are selling cast (alum i'm assuming) 4 inch dia. end caps for $34-$36 each plus s/h. yes, that's 'each'. but they should outlast all of us combined.
j

--
Aquacat 12 (sold)...'87 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'03 Nacra Inter18 (sold)
Venture 15 (sold)....'89 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'91 Nacra 5.8NA (sold)
'99 Nacra Inter20 (sold)
--

I've now got 4 extras, from the dead 5.2, in very good shape. I'll try to get them posted.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Quote

i have found that two dealers in australia are selling cast (alum i'm assuming) 4 inch dia. end caps for $34-$36 each plus s/h. yes, that's 'each'

Guys, just make your own for a few bucks total out of sch 40-3" pvc end caps and pipe. Just leave 3/4" for the tramp slotThere's more detail and explanation in my Beachcats People album

nacraman57, the beams on my 5.8 are 4 inch diameter, not 3 in. but i'm going searching for 4 inch pvc to see if i can make some like yours. i love makin' something from almost nothing! what type of saw did you use to slice the round end off.........a band saw? plywood (fine tooth) blade in a mitre saw?
j

--
Aquacat 12 (sold)...'87 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'03 Nacra Inter18 (sold)
Venture 15 (sold)....'89 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'91 Nacra 5.8NA (sold)
'99 Nacra Inter20 (sold)
--

nacraman57

Quote

i have found that two dealers in australia are selling cast (alum i'm assuming) 4 inch dia. end caps for $34-$36 each plus s/h. yes, that's 'each'

Guys, just make your own for a few bucks total out of sch 40-3" pvc end caps and pipe. Just leave 3/4" for the tramp slotThere's more detail and explanation in my Beachcats People album

Those look great. Thanks for the tip. I now have another winter project.

--
NACRA 18 SQ uared

Okanagan, BC, Can
--

Quote

nacraman57, the beams on my 5.8 are 4 inch diameter, not 3 in. but i'm going searching for 4 inch pvc to see if i can make some like yours.

Arch...your beams are the same size as mine. All those early NACRA's had the same beams. The 3" cap is meant to fit OVER the 3" pipe so the rounded end is almost exactly the same diameter as the beam. The short length of 3" pipe goes INSIDE the beam. I think I cut it to a 3/4" length. Most caps I've seen have a line around the circumfrence of the cap end where it was pulled out of the mould. Use this as a guide to cut the cap end off. I used a fine tooth backsaw while rotating the cap in a vice then smoothing the saw marks by sanding it with 120 grit paper laid flat on a tabletop. Take the short 3" pipe, cut out a space for the tramp slot and force it into the beam. You can then measure the gap in the pipe to get a custom fit. For extra strength I used 1" screws to secure pipe to cap. The epoxy should be thick so it doesn't run before setting up

thanks nacraman57........of course they're 3 in. (what was i thinking??) pipe is inside diameter (duh).
can't wait to try this. i've used PC-11 epoxy on my boats when gluing down the hull covers after repairs. it's much stiffer than frosting and dries bullet-proof. that's what i'll use on the caps.

BTW, i emailed jack young at nacra and he said the cap mold is still around but the caps were injection molded and the manuf wanted a min run of several hundred before they would run them again. since it's an old design, nacra didn't wanna invest that much in a supply of new caps.
jon

--
Aquacat 12 (sold)...'87 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'03 Nacra Inter18 (sold)
Venture 15 (sold)....'89 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'91 Nacra 5.8NA (sold)
'99 Nacra Inter20 (sold)
--

I wonder if Jack would like to part with the mold . . .
Not much demand for the round end caps. Nacra no longer manufactures the round beams. All the current boats use the D shaped beam extrusions.

--
Philip
--

mummp: i don't think nacra had the mold. i think they outsourced the parts from someone who could do injection molding.

nacraman57: if the cap is plumbing pvc, then it should be possible to use the solvent that plumbers use to glue the pvc parts together instead of epoxy. it would set up in just minutes and be really strong after it fully cures. if you've done a plastic plumbing install then you know what i mean. it dissolves the pvc slightly, then hardens quickly. clear or purple color.

--
Aquacat 12 (sold)...'87 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'03 Nacra Inter18 (sold)
Venture 15 (sold)....'89 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'91 Nacra 5.8NA (sold)
'99 Nacra Inter20 (sold)
--

Supercat beams are a little bit larger, so no go on that.

I have some 'D' shaped ones for sale!

nacraman57: i've cut my cap and it fits over the beam perfectly but 3" pvc pipe is 3 1/2" O.D. (outside diameter) and this is too small to fit snugly inside the aluminum beam. there is way too much air gap between the pvc pipe and the aluminum beam. did you stretch your pipe out to a larger diameter after you cut it? 3 in pvc just isn't big enough to fit tightly inside the beam.

--
Aquacat 12 (sold)...'87 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'03 Nacra Inter18 (sold)
Venture 15 (sold)....'89 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'91 Nacra 5.8NA (sold)
'99 Nacra Inter20 (sold)
--

Arch, yeah seems to me I used a tapered piece of wood to force it against the inside of the beam. With the pipe half in, half out push the wood into the tramp slot gap. That's why you see the screws holding the unit together along with a thick epoxy. It was touchy drilling the holes (best to do it BEFORE the Busch Lite). Mark the depth on the bit so you don't drill through the cap. The PVC wasn't an exact fit but snug enough to hold in place while you put in the retainer screws. Had my doubts about the durability, but it's been over three years and they haven't broke yet. That's why I would recommend epoxy rather than solvent.

ATTENTION MANUFACTURER OF NACRA END CAPS!!!
this forum has had over 2100 views as of Nov 1 2011. apparently lots of cat owners are interested in these caps. won't you please make some more???

--
Aquacat 12 (sold)...'87 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'03 Nacra Inter18 (sold)
Venture 15 (sold)....'89 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'91 Nacra 5.8NA (sold)
'99 Nacra Inter20 (sold)
--

a couple of years and how times have changed..........
the solution for this problem of plastic end caps may just be in 3D Printing. these printers are becoming common enough and cheap enough that someone (maybe YOU!) could scan in the different caps once and print them out for all of us who may need them.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WmDz7Q9_h6c

just think of the possibilities.......any color, any cat, any beam end, all types of other non-loadbearing parts.........etc.

the start up cost would be too high for an individual to do 4 for himself, but we're talking obsolete, out of stock, long-gone parts that could be replicated.

be still my heart!
j



Edited by arch on Aug 04, 2013 - 07:45 PM.

--
Aquacat 12 (sold)...'87 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'03 Nacra Inter18 (sold)
Venture 15 (sold)....'89 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'91 Nacra 5.8NA (sold)
'99 Nacra Inter20 (sold)
--

I have end caps that will work just fine, and they are not too expensive. I will post a picture when I get back in town on Tuesday. Cost would probably be about $10 - $12 each. If there is really a market, I can knock a bunch out pretty quickly.

--
Craig
Windrider Rave Hydrofoil
Nacra 5.2 Restored and heavily modified
Nacra 5.2 (one under restoration)
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.8NA
SoCal
--

Craig I am interested in a set of your end caps. Any pictures you have would be of interest also.

--
Gary
Stevenson Ranch, CA
Nacra 5.5sl
--

Quote

If there is really a market, I can knock a bunch out pretty quickly.

Maybe start a new thread, NACRA BEAM CAPS, over the years quite a few people have expressed interest in beam caps. I'm sure there has been interest in 40-50 of them, though I realize that is a pretty small run.
PS, the photo of the bent 5.7 tillers might have gotten buried. PM or post if you would like any more specific measurements or photos. I left a proper camera there today.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Ed,

I'll probably put the end caps up at the same time I put the wing seats up.

The picture was a big help. I was also going to put my 5.8's rudders up on the 5.7 and compare to see if the bend ends in the same place as it does in your picture. The problem now is I have no desire to work on the boat as summer comes to an end. Every weekend possible is on the water.

--
Craig
Windrider Rave Hydrofoil
Nacra 5.2 Restored and heavily modified
Nacra 5.2 (one under restoration)
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.8NA
SoCal
--

Contact Murray's again, i think they are carrying an alternate beam end cap.
Here's the part # 56-2503
Tell them Chiindii Windsports sent you.

not sure if i would pay $30 for a plastic end cap with a hole so large that my bungee hook would go right thru and into the beam.

in 2011, i contacted these folks and they were offering cast aluminum end caps for $36. probably higher now and with shipping.....kaching! but the nice thing about alum. is it will probably never need to be replaced again.

at the time, my contact was 'Warren'.
Brisbane Catamarans - briscat@briscatamaran.com.au

what does everyone think about the 3D printing as an economical solution?
j



Edited by arch on Aug 10, 2013 - 09:29 PM.

--
Aquacat 12 (sold)...'87 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'03 Nacra Inter18 (sold)
Venture 15 (sold)....'89 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'91 Nacra 5.8NA (sold)
'99 Nacra Inter20 (sold)
--

Well, I guess one could spend hours posting here, then, go spend a little more time and money at Home Depot, then go to the garage and fabricate something that is hokey. Time is money also. I like big holes, and own a drill. Ive done it both ways. Ill spend the day on the water instead.

One comment, the caps will keep the aka (beam) ends from getting nicked and dented...seriously. A good cap does have a function...

--
Leave places better for having been there; respect others,
"The one thing that doesn't abide by majority rule is a person's conscience." Harper Lee - Scout, To Kill a Mockingbird.
Congress needs fixing, fix it!
--

I know this is a fun dated post... but! End caps are now being made again! Back up on Murrays site. Question is, How do you attach them to the boat? Fricition? Glue? Rivets?

Not sure on the attachment. I think it was generally done with two screws, I don't have a pic. Thanks for the info..

https://www.murrays.com/p…-cap-nacra-without-hole/

--
Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
MacGregor 25 (formerly)
Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
NACRA 5.0 (currently)
High Point, NC
--

Here is a link for DIY end caps. They work great.

https://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures?g2_itemId=108920

--
2016 Hobie Getaway
1978 Nacra 5.2
1978 Hobie 16 (back in the day)
--

Thanks will check it out. I made one out of epoxy, then gave it up...it worked but seemed a PIA to fool with them.

--
Leave places better for having been there; respect others,
"The one thing that doesn't abide by majority rule is a person's conscience." Harper Lee - Scout, To Kill a Mockingbird.
Congress needs fixing, fix it!
--

Quote

Question is, How do you attach them to the boat? Fricition? Glue? Rivets?

Most likely you will see several small holes in the aluminum beam, where a small SS screw went through into the end cap.
Use 2 screws, the end caps don't float. Don't use rivets or glue. The front beam needs to come off to remove the tramp, & you need access to the half moon chicks inside the beam.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Hi Im the one that posted the photos on how to make the end caps, as Edchris177 said I drilled 2 small holes in the beam and used 2 #4 x 1/2" SS screws

to hold them on 4 years now and there still there on my N5.2 and N5.0
the cost is about $9 at HD and it takes about 1 to 2 hours to make 4 of them
Let me know if you have any questions about how to make them



Edited by ohmsj on Feb 03, 2018 - 10:30 PM.

--
Jeff O
N5.0
solcat 18(sold),
N5.2,
H16
Camarillo CA
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FWIW. Anyone pays $30.00 for one cap needs to swill more.

Also FWIW, attaching if you have is easy. The pair I made from left over epoxy, which I no longer use, was attached to aka by using longish bungie...drilled hole in center of epoxy and ran very thin cord through with knot on outside...PIA but cannot lose cap...but as PIA and figured not needed, no longer mess with it...and likely why end-caps do not sell and price is so high!

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Leave places better for having been there; respect others,
"The one thing that doesn't abide by majority rule is a person's conscience." Harper Lee - Scout, To Kill a Mockingbird.
Congress needs fixing, fix it!
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