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re: [beachcats] help: waterproof trailer wiring
  • Posted: 01.07.2008, 06:42
     
    rank:
    Captain Captain
    registered:
     August 2007
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    last visit:
    03.07.08
    Posts:
    1681

    I have my lights and license plate mounted to a s.s. bar that has holes dri=
    lled to drop over the pins on my gudgeons on the transoms(of several boats)=
    . This get removed before dunking the boat and trailer, and is stored indo=
    ors when not being used. This avoids water damage, sun damage and the need=
    to maintain lights on several trailers. You can also use cheap lights wit=
    h this set up.
    =20
    Dave


    To: beachcats@yahoogroups.comFrom: c152u@roadrunner.comDate: Mon, 30 Jun 20=
    08 20:23:46 -0700Subject: RE: [beachcats] Help: Waterproof trailer wiring




    I had looked at those too, but settled for a set from Harbor Freight, had a=
    nice set of submersible LED on sale for $39.99. I'll be putting those onthi=
    s weekend. One thing I did note that the ground is on of the bolts thatis u=
    sed to connect the light units to the trailer frame - guess I'll bemaking s=
    ure that those connections are clean and that my frame ground isclean too. =
    -----Original Message-----From: beachcats@yahoogroups.com [mailto:beachcats= @yahoogroups.com] On BehalfOf Damon LinkousSent: Monday, June 30, 2008 7:14=
    PMTo: beachcats@yahoogroups.comSubject: Re: [beachcats] Help: Waterproof t=
    railer wiringI'm in the same boat icon_wink My trailer has a lot of lights, the fu=
    ll set for (Over 80", legal 50 states), four side markers, turn/running, an=
    d center light bar. On a standard four wire hookup that is a lot of splices=
    . Looks to be a factory setup (Is it, Kenny?) but after thousands of miles =
    on the road I'm having trouble. The brake lights and turn signals work, but=
    none of the other lights, including running lights, work.Diagnosing this i=
    s a hassle, I've checked/removed/replaced every ground (usually the problem=
    on trailers), and replaced all the bulbs with no luck.I'm considering stri=
    pping it all out and replacing it with this kit from West Marinehttp://tiny=
    url. <http://tinyurl.com/6dr5w9> com/6dr5w9It has all LED lights and waterp=
    roof connectors, but pricey at $250.Damon LinkousHobie 18 Magnum 1992Memphi=
    s, Tennesseehttp://www.TheBeach <http://www.TheBeachcats.com> cats.com-----=
    Original Message ----- From: "trainingmarines" <trainingmarines@&lt;mailto:tr=
    ainingmarines%40yahoo.com> yahoo.com>To: <beachcats@yahoogrou <mailto:beach=
    cats%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com>Sent: Monday, June 30, 2008 3:58 PMSubject: =
    [beachcats] Help: Waterproof trailer wiring> My trailer wiring can use repl=
    acing. It appears that whomever wired> the lights on this trailer did not d=
    o so with reliability or> longevity in mind. Bare, twisted wired are oxidiz=
    ed or corroding,> extra slices go nowhere, nothing is sealed, etc.> So I pl=
    an to replace all the wiring on the trailer, along with the> lights.>> I ha=
    ve some experience with wiring and electronics. Wiring trailer> lights shou=
    ld be an easy, basic task.> But I would prefer asking some questions of oth=
    ers first, before I> start. I'm sure at least some of you have tackled this=
    at least > once> or more times.>> I see that the wiring kits and the compl=
    ete kits (with wiring and> lights) include some wire splicing hardware, tha=
    t allows you to> branch an additional wire off from the one you attach it t=
    o. And> crimp connectors for joining or plugging two wires together.> The p=
    roblem I see is that the splicing hardware, as well as the > other> pieces,=
    do not seal the connections, nor the wire where these> connections are mad=
    e, from water, especially salt water.> I want every wire, where the cover/i=
    nsulation is cut or removed, to> be waterproof. (If salt water gets on the =
    bare wire and under the> insulation, the wire will corrode and be ruined.)>=
    I know I can solder every splice, but the wire will still be exposed> to w=
    ater.> Tape and heat shrink tubing can replace insulation, but may not> pro=
    tect wiring from any water from entering.>> Please tell me what you use, th=
    at prevents all water (and salt > water)> from coming in contact with any b=
    are water and getting under any > wire> covers/insulation.>> Thanks to all =
    in advance.> Marshall>>>>> ------------------------------------>> Group Hom=
    e> http://www.TheBeach <http://www.TheBeachcats.com> cats.com>> Yahoo! Grou=
    ps Links>>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]=20






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