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Hobie 18 Daggers  Bottom

  • I rigged my daggers as per the manual, (4' of 1/4" bungee). That in itself is a job, trying to stretch the ends through that little hole, then have enough to tie a knot in the end.
    I found in bumpy conditions they still worked to the full down position.
    What are people using for bungee... single 5/16", three lines of 1/4"?
    It's a pain to have the boards move from where I put them.
    I have a few feet of that 3M "furry" tape for the dagger wells.
    How much, & where do you apply it?

    Was out in 40 clicks,(25mph) the other day. I notice water coming up through the well on the downwind board. Is this normal? Should there be "sealing" tape, like the Mystere had?

    Thanks.
    Still getting used to it, can't get as much boat speed as I could from the N5.7. It seems to move once in the groove, but I'm finding it harder to find, & then stay in the grove, compared to the 5.7.
    The helm is very nice, though I'm quickly tiring of the Hobie Hum. Not sure if I can sand the EPO blades as per Hobie Forum Posts.

    --
    Hobie 18 Magnum
    Dart 15
    Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
    Nacra 5.7
    Nacra 5.0
    Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
    Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
    --
  • I can't recall ever having my boards slip on me - I can only assume I had more tension on my bungee

    I've never heard of anyone using gasket tape on a h18
    was the board partially up when it was spewing?
  • Use more bungee...

    Yes, if the boards are dropping, then you need more tension to hold them in position. On mine, I use three passes of (I believe) 1/4" black shock cord all of which pass through one of those black plastic carabiner clips that Murrays sells. Then I have a 2-3" long loop of 1/4" line which comes up through the hole in the deck flange. Connect the clip to the loop for quick installation/removal. Sometimes the boards may still slip down, but if they're set up right, it's very rare. The contact points for the board to the trunk are the top forward end and the bottom aft end. You can add a little carpet there to add some drag and reduce wear, but just make sure you don't add too much or the board will wedge into the trunk.

    A little water coming up through the trunk is normal when sailing with the boards up in high wind. Typically we only raise the boards to about 1/2 way max because anymore than that and there is a large void created by the trunk due to the taper of the dagger board tip. Don't bother using any gasket/sealer. It's will just cause problems and it's not class legal anyway.

    sm
  • Edchris177I rigged my daggers as per the manual, (4' of 1/4" bungee). That in itself is a job, trying to stretch the ends through that little hole, then have enough to tie a knot in the end.
    I found in bumpy conditions they still worked to the full down position.
    What are people using for bungee... single 5/16", three lines of 1/4"?
    It's a pain to have the boards move from where I put them.
    I have a few feet of that 3M "furry" tape for the dagger wells.
    How much, & where do you apply it?

    I've done it lots of ways, the key is just get the "right tension" on the bungee, I know that doesn't help much.

    For years I tied the knot through the deck lip hole but now I have a short loop of 1/8" line tied permanently to the hole and I've permanently tied the 1/4" bungee to the daggerboard with a plastic hook slid onto it. That way I can pull the daggers out of the bag and "hook" them in place without having to tie any knots and everything is set the same each time.

    Put a few inches of your furry tape on the leading and trailing ends of the top of the daggerboard trunk, the purpose is to reduce the banging of the board against the fiberglass, reducing wear on the trunks and damage to your boards.

    I also put a 6 inch or so strip on each side of the top of the trunk beside the boards to reduce play and "rattling" of the board, but that will depend on your own setup if there is enough room.

    They changed the trunk design on the Hobie 18 about 1987 so that the trunk is part of the hull, before that it was a separate piece so there was a lip at the bottom that could leak and also do damage to the boards, if you have the lip then some padding down there on the trailing end would be good.
    Edchris177
    Was out in 40 clicks,(25mph) the other day. I notice water coming up through the well on the downwind board. Is this normal? Should there be "sealing" tape, like the Mystere had?

    That is normal if you raise the boards completely clear of the bottom, so don't do that.

    With the boat on the trailer, after you've adjusted your bungees to hold the boards in place, slide the boards up and down until you find the spot where the full width part of the board is at the bottom of the hull. (only the smaller curved part is exposed below) Then mark both sides of your board with paint or electrical tape right at the deck. That is your downwind board location.

    Then raise the daggers until they are completely inside the hulls, nothing exposed below, mark that spot with tape/paint and that is your "safe to beach" position.

    --
    Damon Linkous
    1992 Hobie 18
    Memphis, TN

    How To Create Your Signature

    How To Create Your Own Cool Avatar

    How To Display Pictures In The Forums.
    --
  • HaHa I'm slow and long winded, Dogboy said it all.

    --
    Damon Linkous
    1992 Hobie 18
    Memphis, TN

    How To Create Your Signature

    How To Create Your Own Cool Avatar

    How To Display Pictures In The Forums.
    --
  • Its all about how clean the boards and trunk lip are. When my stuff was old and crusty, it never slipped. Once I sanded it down the boards couldnt stay up with any amount of tension of shock cord. Like mentioned before a little 2" strip of that deck carpet from home depot on the front of the trunk did the trick.
  • Quotewas the board partially up when it was spewing?

    Yes, I had them about 1/2 way, as "I think" I remember reading having them all the way down on beam reach in good wind could break a board.
    QuoteYes, if the boards are dropping, then you need more tension to hold them in position. On mine, I use three passes of (I believe) 1/4" black shock cord

    Thanks, I'll add another one. By carabiner hooks, do mean 3 of these, one on each cord?
    http://www.murrays.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/01-0127_2_144x144.jpg
    Quote The contact points for the board to the trunk are the top forward end and the bottom aft end. You can add a little carpet there to add some drag and reduce wear, but just make sure you don't add too much or the board will wedge into the trunk.

    Thanks
    QuoteThey changed the trunk design on the Hobie 18 about 1987 so that the trunk is part of the hull, before that it was a separate piece so there was a lip at the bottom that could leak and also do damage to the boards, if you have the lip then some padding down there on the trailing end would be good.

    Yes, I have that "lip".
    When I pressure tested the hulls this spring, there was a small leak in one hull, at the top rear. I still had the boat apart, so I flipped the hull, strategically applied some tape to form a reservoir, then applied slight vacumn, After 7 sails, there is about 2 ounces of water in each hull.

    I bought a set boards from a chap on this forum, they are in excellent shape. He had magic marker on them, but I see it's all gone now. I'll run a round of tape around them.
    Thanks for the good intel. Have to go to Hongkong tomorrow, but back on Sat, & will add these tweaks on Sunday.

    --
    Hobie 18 Magnum
    Dart 15
    Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
    Nacra 5.7
    Nacra 5.0
    Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
    Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
    --
  • QuoteThanks, I'll add another one. By carabiner hooks, do mean 3 of these, one on each cord?

    those were the exact clips I used on my h18 boards
  • Edchris177
    QuoteYes, if the boards are dropping, then you need more tension to hold them in position. On mine, I use three passes of (I believe) 1/4" black shock cord

    Thanks, I'll add another one. By carabiner hooks, do mean 3 of these, one on each cord?
    http://www.murrays.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/01-0127_2_144x144.jpg


    That's the same hook I use, for the bungee I just use a loop of 1/4" adjusted for tension with the knot in the bungee. It stays attached to the daggers when they are stowed.
  • I had a loop of rope through in th daggerboard and then the bungee attached to the boat had the same plastic hook shown above. So would then hook onto the rope. I think my bungee was thicker than 1/4".

    --
    Scott,
    ‘92 H18 w/SX wings
    ‘95 Hobie Funseeker 12 (Holder 12)
    ‘96/‘01/‘14 Hobie Waves
    --
  • OK, I'm going to use a length of 5/16", because I have a roll of it, plus an additional 1/4"
    Right now I have a piece of line through the deck hull, to stretch the bungee, I like the idea of the short loop that many seem to use.
    Has anyone used these hooks?
    http://newcontent.westmarine.com/content/images/catalog/full/2690626.jpg
    I'm wondering if they hold the end as well as a simple knot. I'm going to use them because I got a bag of them for Xmas

    --
    Hobie 18 Magnum
    Dart 15
    Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
    Nacra 5.7
    Nacra 5.0
    Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
    Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
    --
  • re: Leaking, I went in from the bottom and smeared a bead of thickened epoxy along the lower flange in the dagger well and that was the end of my leaks.

    As far as the boards slipping down, the standard bungie and 3M velcro tape always worked for me, but I've seen guys who sail their H18s through the surf add rubber fricton stoppers to the deck similar to these...

    https://pull01-apsltd.netdna-ssl.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/l/p/lp91538.jpg



    Edited by BrianCT on Jul 03, 2016 - 08:07 PM.
  • My leak was at the upper rear of one well, where it looked like the board had been banged repeatedly against the hull. Not sure how that occurred, as Dogboy mentioned, the natural place of contact is upper front, & bottom rear.
    I thought about thickening the mix, but decided the slight vacumn would draw a thinner mix deeper into the existing structure.
    I used a bit of tape to create a small pool of epoxy so it would not end up sucking air, then wiped away the excess once it started to kick.

    --
    Hobie 18 Magnum
    Dart 15
    Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
    Nacra 5.7
    Nacra 5.0
    Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
    Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
    --
  • Wow, what a difference that little bit of tape makes.
    I added a 3" piece, folded into a sharp "V" at top/front, & rear/bottom.
    that changed things so much, I reduced the bungees by half.
    I initially didn't think that furry 3M stuff was any good, it didn't seem very sticky, I thought it would come off quickly. After 4 days sailing, it seems to be holding up.
    I think i added too much though, as I can't get the boards totally down now. They stick up about 3"-4" from hitting the rope handle.
    got 17.5mph on the GPS the other day, waiting for more wind.

    --
    Hobie 18 Magnum
    Dart 15
    Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
    Nacra 5.7
    Nacra 5.0
    Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
    Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
    --
  • Even more importantly, make sure the boards don't get stuck DOWN. Then you will be in a world of hurt.

    sm

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