NACRA 5.2 Jib help!
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Posted: Jan 09, 2015 - 01:42 PM
1/2" is huge, 3/16" or 1/4' will do.
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Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
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Posted: Jan 11, 2015 - 09:48 AM
Ron, thanks for the "catch", meant to type 1/4"....
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Posted: Mar 30, 2015 - 05:00 PM
Okay guys, the snow has melted and I've finally got a chance to take some photos. Here's what I'm working with. I tried to photograph the situation on the fore cross beam. The tramp does have two slits on each side for (I'm guessing) the jib lines to run under/through. I don't have any tracks/cars on the top of the hulls. What do I need and where can I buy it? I currently have the jib sheet and a halyard for it, but that's it.
Thanks!! You guys are a wealth of info and a great help. Let me know if I need a different view in the pics.
Edited by jrkotz on Mar 30, 2015 - 06:12 PM. -
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Posted: Mar 30, 2015 - 06:27 PM
jr, there should be 2 cables running from the front beam to the rear beam, 1 port, 1 starboard. The cable will be attached to the rear beam using an eyelet, it will run under the tramp, up through the first slit, and back down under the tramp through the 2nd slit, attaching to the front beam by using a 2nd eyelet. The length of the cables are the distance between front and rear beam and have swaged thimbles on each end
This means that the cable must be fitted to the eyelet before the eyelet is riveted to the beam, once the cables have been fitted, then the jib blocks are attached to the cable above the tramp, once the blocks have been attached refer to pic i posted for you on previous page as to the jib sheets.
R -
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Posted: Mar 30, 2015 - 06:49 PM
Looks like that's my first step R, I need to buy and run these cables. Your photo and explanation has really helped my understanding of what I need to do here. -
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Posted: Mar 30, 2015 - 07:06 PM
That photo on the previous page is "old style", you can see that the cable runs above the tramp, so an upgrade was to run the cable under the tramp except for a short stretch which was to run above tramp so that the jib blocks could be attached, that is why your tramp has those 2 slits, also called strops. I was thinking that it would be great to order those 2 cables with turnbuckles on 1 end so that the tension could be adjusted but that's just my thinking. Don't forget to order eye-straps if needed, if they are still attached to the beams you will have to drill the rivets out to remove them, and then you will need new rivets and a rivet gun/puller to relocate eye-straps under the beam.
R -
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Posted: Mar 31, 2015 - 06:40 AM
Man! Your 5.2 looks a lot like mine with the blue. I ditched the center tube though. Actually flipped it around and use it as a righting pole.
Where are you located? What's it gonna take to see you come sail Lake Michigan?
These are your jib "cars"
http://www.harken.com/pro…l.aspx?id=4562&taxid=429
though these are on clearance
http://www.harken.com/pro….aspx?id=14334&taxid=428
There are some additional lines that control the fore and aft of these.
I'm hoping uncover my boat maybe today. But I have a lot of reassembly to do. I will document what I can for you. It might be a few days though.
-Cesar
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Cesar (Cez) S.
Hobie 16 (had a few)
Nacra 5.2 "Hull Yeah"
Vectorworks XJ - A class (not named yet)
West Michigan (Grand Rapids/Holland Area)
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Posted: Mar 31, 2015 - 06:46 AM
Also, a lot of people are using dyneema for those jib car wires now. Feel a little better when you cross paths with them when tacking etc.
I'm planning on that.
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Cesar (Cez) S.
Hobie 16 (had a few)
Nacra 5.2 "Hull Yeah"
Vectorworks XJ - A class (not named yet)
West Michigan (Grand Rapids/Holland Area)
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Posted: Mar 31, 2015 - 03:54 PM
[url][http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures?g2_itemId=74166&g2_imageViewsIndex=1/url]. Here is a picture of my setup. Vectran line is stretched between the front and rear beams when it is attached to it pad eyes. The line comes through and above the tramp using some eyelets. I protected the exposed pae of the line with rubber hose. the blocks are attached to the line and held in position by a second line running to the rear beam padeye. Hope this helps.
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Mar 31, 2015 - 07:11 PM
Here is a picture of the underside of my boat. The loose line is my righting system the taught line tight to the tramp is the jib line/wire. You can also see the second line that holds the block in place.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures?g2_itemId=113172
Here is the rear padeye where the two lines attach at the rear beam.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures?g2_itemId=113175
To get it taught enough you should use a truckers hitch for 2:1 purchase
http://www.netknots.com/rope_knots/truckers-hitch/
Hey Damon if you see this any thoughts why the side panel on my album overlaps my pictures and this box is about 10 ft long on my screen (I have to scroll down quite a ways to get to the buttons). I'm using chrome.
D.
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Apr 01, 2015 - 04:15 PM
I'm located in Charleston, WV. This will be my first full season with the cat. We have some nice mountain lakes here that offer some interesting sailing! Thanks guys, my research continues. Looking like Ebay for the Block/cam/cleats. Those suckers are pricey! -
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Posted: Apr 01, 2015 - 04:36 PM
Do any of these look good guys? The first one is non-racheting, the second two are racheting. Not sure which ones I need.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/P…h=item259bcb4fd1&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1…eName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1…eName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Kind of tough to see if they're in good condition from the photos. Guess this guy in Houston has a lot of cat parts. -
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Posted: Apr 01, 2015 - 10:32 PM
Can't help you on which ones to buy, but I can attest to the quality of the seller. I know him personally, and have bought several items from him. He's very fair and will give you an honest appraisal of whatever he's selling.
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Tim
81 Hobie 16
87 Nacra 5.7
Austin, TX
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Posted: Apr 02, 2015 - 10:56 AM
Any of those will neat your needs. Ratcheting is nice because you don't have to use as much strength to hold the job line while its uncleated but it isn't a must. It's more important to have on a main sheet. None of my job setups currently have ratchet blocks.
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Apr 02, 2015 - 12:09 PM
Just spoke with Tim in Houston, he's going to set me up with the camcleats and blocks. An order with Murry's and I think I'm on the way to getting this jib up
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